The late start was because of the bus pass deal. And forgetting an ice axe... well that was purely bad form. I almost never forget my ice axe, but because we were in a rush for the bus I grabbed my pack which my ice axe is near my bed room door. I should have attached it ahead of time. Ice Axe or No Ice Axe, Michael said it was the most scary climb he has done.
Thanks peladoboton! I took a bit of an assumption on this one, and we all know what they say about an assumption. ;-) In a sense it was worth it because to this day I am terrified by just thinking of the experience and the lesson learned from this adventure hopefully will prevent me from doing something like this again. Also I posted the story in hopes to portray that things don't always top out the way that we expect them to.
of what not to do. Many things I was afraid of came true on this climb. We didn't fully respect the difficulties of the mountain and we nearly paid for that with our lives.
My sense of pride about having completed a new route is completely drowned by my sense of shame for having completed the route while risking my brother's life. I'm just glad he's alive.
Great to read an honest account like that. Life, and climbing has lessons. We cant get it all right first time. Glad you are both safe and learned from it! Good pictures.....
Thanks John. Dow Williams once told me "Keep them honest Josh" which to this day I try to stay as down to earth in my stories while still portraying the excitement and fear of mountaineering.
On one hand I think it's awesome that you completed a new route which you came up with yourself. It sounds like it was a real hair-raising adventure. On the other hand, it seems like it wasn't really worth the risks that you two took.
Many climbers would have turned around when they realized that they forgot their ice axe. I have had to turn around before for that reason myself. Smart climbers will learn from a situation like this and never take such risks again. But some climbers will never learn from their mistakes, and sadly, those are the ones who will eventually get themselves killed.
I think it's totally natural for a developing climber to find himself in a bit of trouble like this. It's certainly happened to me over the years. But the important question is how will this affect your decisions in the future?
Technically speaking, was the "new route" actually completed? It sounds like they reached a ridgetop (knowing that area a little bit, I think I can guess which one), but there was not any mention of reaching the summit. And judging by their descriptions, time, conditions, etc. I have doubts the summit was reached. This is perhaps a "new route" for reaching a particular ridgetop, but whether or not this is a feasible new route for the summit remains to be seen. But that is not to downgrade their experience or the difficulties within. But perhaps this type of experience is why most people approach this peak from totally different directions than this, and definitely with different conditions.
I am glad they both got back safe and I really hope they both learn from this experience. I am also glad that they have enough humility and openness to share this experience with others. Please don't use this experience as a motivator to push to harder goals, Josh and Michael. You can only tempt fate for so long, and mountaineering already has enough risks with good conditions. You guys are strong climbers; we don't need to have two fewer.
You're right; we did not summit. Our route merges with the standard North approach up Olney Creek at the base of the summit block. Looked easy to get to but who knows for sure. I'll give it the whole effort but next time I'll quit way before it gets out of hand.
Do you have to summit to complete an new route. For example lets just say the Gib Ledges had never been attempted and Ingraham Direct was. You make it up the Gib Ledges and onto the Ingraham. You don't make it to the summit but I would say yes to the new route and no to summitting. However these technical aspects of climbing take away the pure joy of just getting out and being on the mountain.
Our Route joined with the Standard Route at the very end. We could not have been bothered to summit after what we went though. If someone for the first time climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier on Mount Stuart, turns around at the end of the Cascadian, I would still consider it a first ascent of the route.
When it gets steep on a mountain I get excited. Where danger tells me that I'm in trouble, I start to worry. And if I'm in a live or die life situation where everything is breaking way, I become horrified. When I was on the ledge having just enough room to sit down, I too felt on the edge of my seat! ;-)
Not much more to say other than to listen to the clues before you go on a mountain. If you forgot your ice axe and helmet call it a day or pick an easier mountain. Don't force yourself up a mountain or a route!
We considered climbing the rarely climbed West Ridge of Mount Zeke's but Michael wanted Stickney more. But I have to agree, many times I tell myself "I'm lucky to be Alive".
Thanks. I do admit the thought did occur to me for a second as I was on the ledge "Why didn't I post my 15 day trip before climbing this?". I do humor myself on some of these climbs. And sometimes you have to distract yourself from the nerve racking reality of the situation that awaits you.
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 9:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: WhewThe late start was because of the bus pass deal. And forgetting an ice axe... well that was purely bad form. I almost never forget my ice axe, but because we were in a rush for the bus I grabbed my pack which my ice axe is near my bed room door. I should have attached it ahead of time. Ice Axe or No Ice Axe, Michael said it was the most scary climb he has done.
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 9:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Whew x 100Thanks peladoboton! I took a bit of an assumption on this one, and we all know what they say about an assumption. ;-) In a sense it was worth it because to this day I am terrified by just thinking of the experience and the lesson learned from this adventure hopefully will prevent me from doing something like this again. Also I posted the story in hopes to portray that things don't always top out the way that we expect them to.
Mike Lewis - Dec 25, 2011 2:12 pm - Voted 10/10
A reminderof what not to do. Many things I was afraid of came true on this climb. We didn't fully respect the difficulties of the mountain and we nearly paid for that with our lives.
My sense of pride about having completed a new route is completely drowned by my sense of shame for having completed the route while risking my brother's life. I'm just glad he's alive.
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 9:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: A reminderI know what you mean brother. Well said.
mountainmanjohn - Dec 25, 2011 2:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Safe and soundGreat to read an honest account like that. Life, and climbing has lessons. We cant get it all right first time. Glad you are both safe and learned from it! Good pictures.....
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 9:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Safe and soundThanks John. Dow Williams once told me "Keep them honest Josh" which to this day I try to stay as down to earth in my stories while still portraying the excitement and fear of mountaineering.
gimpilator - Dec 25, 2011 3:32 pm - Voted 10/10
A Mixed ReactionOn one hand I think it's awesome that you completed a new route which you came up with yourself. It sounds like it was a real hair-raising adventure. On the other hand, it seems like it wasn't really worth the risks that you two took.
Many climbers would have turned around when they realized that they forgot their ice axe. I have had to turn around before for that reason myself. Smart climbers will learn from a situation like this and never take such risks again. But some climbers will never learn from their mistakes, and sadly, those are the ones who will eventually get themselves killed.
I think it's totally natural for a developing climber to find himself in a bit of trouble like this. It's certainly happened to me over the years. But the important question is how will this affect your decisions in the future?
Redwic - Dec 25, 2011 10:18 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: A Mixed ReactionTechnically speaking, was the "new route" actually completed? It sounds like they reached a ridgetop (knowing that area a little bit, I think I can guess which one), but there was not any mention of reaching the summit. And judging by their descriptions, time, conditions, etc. I have doubts the summit was reached. This is perhaps a "new route" for reaching a particular ridgetop, but whether or not this is a feasible new route for the summit remains to be seen. But that is not to downgrade their experience or the difficulties within. But perhaps this type of experience is why most people approach this peak from totally different directions than this, and definitely with different conditions.
I am glad they both got back safe and I really hope they both learn from this experience. I am also glad that they have enough humility and openness to share this experience with others. Please don't use this experience as a motivator to push to harder goals, Josh and Michael. You can only tempt fate for so long, and mountaineering already has enough risks with good conditions. You guys are strong climbers; we don't need to have two fewer.
Mike Lewis - Dec 26, 2011 6:00 am - Voted 10/10
Re: A Mixed ReactionYou're right; we did not summit. Our route merges with the standard North approach up Olney Creek at the base of the summit block. Looked easy to get to but who knows for sure. I'll give it the whole effort but next time I'll quit way before it gets out of hand.
Redwic - Dec 26, 2011 12:25 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: A Mixed ReactionI'm just glad you guys are safe! It sounds like quite an adventure and learning experience.
And I guess this can be considered a new route/approach, if it joined with the standard approach up high.
blakemj33 - Dec 28, 2011 2:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: A Mixed ReactionDo you have to summit to complete an new route. For example lets just say the Gib Ledges had never been attempted and Ingraham Direct was. You make it up the Gib Ledges and onto the Ingraham. You don't make it to the summit but I would say yes to the new route and no to summitting. However these technical aspects of climbing take away the pure joy of just getting out and being on the mountain.
blakemj33 - Dec 28, 2011 2:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: A Mixed ReactionWell said!!!!
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 10:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: A Mixed ReactionOur Route joined with the Standard Route at the very end. We could not have been bothered to summit after what we went though. If someone for the first time climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier on Mount Stuart, turns around at the end of the Cascadian, I would still consider it a first ascent of the route.
Charybdis - Dec 26, 2011 2:45 pm - Voted 10/10
Gripping story tellingWow! Its hard to imagine you being scared, Josh, so that was really some edge-of-my-seat reading!
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 10:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Gripping story tellingWhen it gets steep on a mountain I get excited. Where danger tells me that I'm in trouble, I start to worry. And if I'm in a live or die life situation where everything is breaking way, I become horrified. When I was on the ledge having just enough room to sit down, I too felt on the edge of my seat! ;-)
EastKing - Dec 26, 2011 3:06 pm - Voted 10/10
Lucky you are alive!Not much more to say other than to listen to the clues before you go on a mountain. If you forgot your ice axe and helmet call it a day or pick an easier mountain. Don't force yourself up a mountain or a route!
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 10:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Lucky you are alive!We considered climbing the rarely climbed West Ridge of Mount Zeke's but Michael wanted Stickney more. But I have to agree, many times I tell myself "I'm lucky to be Alive".
runawayreignbow - Dec 27, 2011 3:50 am - Voted 10/10
Frightening account...Glad you guys are okay and alive to experience more climbs. Gripping story. Stay safe.
Josh Lewis - Jan 3, 2012 10:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Frightening account...Thanks. I do admit the thought did occur to me for a second as I was on the ledge "Why didn't I post my 15 day trip before climbing this?". I do humor myself on some of these climbs. And sometimes you have to distract yourself from the nerve racking reality of the situation that awaits you.
Tools_Incoming - Dec 27, 2011 12:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Great ReadGlad to hear you made it home safe. As someone who is new to alpine climbing, I found a number of great lessons here.