Great trip report. The new Seneca guide book updated Conn's East to a 5.6. Thank god! Those off-width moves are indeed difficult. I think the off-width last pitch of Le Gourmet is equally difficult- and it is a 5.4!
Don't worry, man...we've all been violated by this little honey. Steve Pack (see comments) introduced me to this little vixen several years ago; I found her to be an abusive little lady as well. But, as with many of these situations, the memories are fond ones.
Does anyone else remember climbs in the same way one does past relationships? Hmmmmmm
Just saw this comment and realized how long it's been since I've written a TR! I barely remember most of those things that I wrote about - just the overall sense of a huge sandbag.
pookster1127 - May 31, 2013 6:22 pm - Hasn't voted
Its more than the exposure
I really loved this article. It is so true of Seneca. Some moves are just difficult to figure out to make the rating I expected. I got kicked on Conn West this last weekend
Seneca will punish you if you don't have your footwork down. Many of these climbs are much easier if you're willing to weight your feet in in creative ways. That being said, the offwidth stuff is a lot easier with practice. Conns east is 5.4-5.5.....not sure how the new book gave it 5.6. Durrance route on Devil's Tower is a 6 pitch off width that is rated 5.6 and many feel to be 5.8. This is purely because of exposure and the awkwardness off offwidthing......there's nothing natural about having half your body in a crack! However, it's very secure and once you figure out the nuances you'll feel much more comfy. If you want to be sandbagged, climb Thais Direct.....lol.....you'll BEG for Conn's East again! My favorite route to take beginners on was Conn's West.....good exposure but very good feet and hands with a few vertical spots. If you got kicked on it, it's because you weren't trusting your feet.
stevepack - Aug 9, 2006 5:23 pm - Voted 9/10
It's really a 5.4!When I first did Conn's East it was rated 5.4! Lots of climbs at Seneca like that. It's not the grade of the climb, it's the exposure.
rickford - Jul 17, 2007 11:19 am - Voted 10/10
hmmm..Great trip report. The new Seneca guide book updated Conn's East to a 5.6. Thank god! Those off-width moves are indeed difficult. I think the off-width last pitch of Le Gourmet is equally difficult- and it is a 5.4!
stevepack - Oct 19, 2007 8:34 pm - Voted 9/10
5.6 ???They call it a 5.6 now!!! WTF...I gotta go back and climb it sometime.
butlerw2 - Mar 23, 2009 8:30 am - Hasn't voted
You're no longer a Conn's East Virgin!Don't worry, man...we've all been violated by this little honey. Steve Pack (see comments) introduced me to this little vixen several years ago; I found her to be an abusive little lady as well. But, as with many of these situations, the memories are fond ones.
Does anyone else remember climbs in the same way one does past relationships? Hmmmmmm
AlexeyD - Mar 24, 2009 10:37 am - Hasn't voted
Re: You're no longer a Conn's East Virgin!Just saw this comment and realized how long it's been since I've written a TR! I barely remember most of those things that I wrote about - just the overall sense of a huge sandbag.
pookster1127 - May 31, 2013 6:22 pm - Hasn't voted
Its more than the exposureI really loved this article. It is so true of Seneca. Some moves are just difficult to figure out to make the rating I expected. I got kicked on Conn West this last weekend
WyomingSummits - Oct 6, 2013 10:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Seneca ratingsSeneca will punish you if you don't have your footwork down. Many of these climbs are much easier if you're willing to weight your feet in in creative ways. That being said, the offwidth stuff is a lot easier with practice. Conns east is 5.4-5.5.....not sure how the new book gave it 5.6. Durrance route on Devil's Tower is a 6 pitch off width that is rated 5.6 and many feel to be 5.8. This is purely because of exposure and the awkwardness off offwidthing......there's nothing natural about having half your body in a crack! However, it's very secure and once you figure out the nuances you'll feel much more comfy. If you want to be sandbagged, climb Thais Direct.....lol.....you'll BEG for Conn's East again! My favorite route to take beginners on was Conn's West.....good exposure but very good feet and hands with a few vertical spots. If you got kicked on it, it's because you weren't trusting your feet.