This view from Mix-up Peak...

This view from Mix-up Peak...

This view from Mix-up Peak shows the Cache Glacier rising to a point at Cache Col, where the Ptarmigan Traverse passes through on the way to Kool-Aid Lake. Magic Mountain commands the skyline.
Photo from August, 1977
Eric Sandbo
on Sep 15, 2005 2:22 am
Image ID: 126262

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Derek Franzen

Derek Franzen - Sep 17, 2005 7:00 pm - Voted 10/10

Magic...

Kevin G, Bob A and I climbed (at least partially) up the N Ridge of Magic; we traversed from the col to the ridgeline N of the summit then continued up the ridge to the summit. Have you done it and do you remember any details?

Eric Sandbo

Eric Sandbo - Sep 18, 2005 1:52 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Magic...

Not really. We climbed it the day after this photo, and I have a few shots from the climb already scanned. I'll email them. There was an exposed class 3 traverse on the NE side of the crest, but I don't remember much beyond what my photos show. I know mistakes can be costly: we once had a mountain rescue mission for a woman who had died in a fall on the mountain. That was when I became truly aware of the drop-off below where you cross the steep snow gully when approaching the Cache Glacier. I had half of a smooth-bottomed litter strapped to my pack. If I'd fallen over backwards with that, I'd have been sailin' when I went over the cliff.

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