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larryNExceeded expectations  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2008

larryN

Great day, and only missed seeing the mountain's owner by one day. :-) We stayed below the normal snow traverse shown by Dean's picture, and made a short snow traverse and rock scramble below the longer snow traverse. I did it as an official Mountaineers' scramble with two fast leaders, and it took 8.5 hrs car-to-car, with one hour at the lookout. I'll definitely be back to climb this one again. Here's our route.
Posted Sep 19, 2008 6:13 pm

gimpilatorStill My Favorite  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008

gimpilator

Josh Lewis and I left Friday night and made our bivy at horseshoe lake. We started again early in the morning and were on the summit by 1pm. The snow traverse was a little too icy so we stayed in the moat which is less exposed. Flawless weather.
Posted Sep 14, 2008 1:44 pm

RomaKFinally!  Sucess!

RomaK

The summit definitely lived up to the hype. Beautiful views all around and very fun ladders (not very hard). High snow year (usual traverse was very steep and sketchy and moat was not accessible) forced us (and other parties that day) to descend about 3-400 ft into the Queest Alb glacier bowl from Tin Can Gap and ascend back onto the main route via a snow tongue higher up. There was a short 40 degree couloir with moats on both sides which was a bit unnerving without crampons (which we stupidly didn't bring; did have an ice axe though).
Posted Sep 11, 2008 7:05 pm

nigelmccRe: Long day

nigelmcc

I thought we left at 11:45?
Posted Sep 24, 2007 1:13 am

nigelmccGoat Flats/Tin Gap  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007

nigelmcc

Beautiful day, plenty of goats as well.
Posted Sep 24, 2007 12:35 am

Kyle BissellLong day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007

Kyle Bissell

My friend Nigel and I slept overnight in my car and started hiking at 5:40 AM in thick fog. The 2.5 miles to saddle lake really sucked, but it got better beyond there. Broke out of the fog ~5000 feet and we were above the clouds the rest of the way. We summited around 11:45, and were back to the car at 3:40PM, making for about 8.5 hours of hiking aside from break time. Coming back from Saddle Lake to the trailhead drove me absolutely bonkers, and I was a very happy man when I saw that good ol' trailhead sign!
Posted Sep 16, 2007 6:52 pm

DeanStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007

Dean

Did this one with Bob, Eric and Duane on a beautiful day. I'd been wanting to do this one ever since I read the book about this peak many years ago so it was terrific to be able to do it. I did make the mistake of doing this one in brand new boots and I paid the price on the way out. This one is a must do if you love the Washington Cascades.
Posted Aug 25, 2007 11:19 pm

Bob BoltonStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007

Bob Bolton

Great hike with Dean, Eric and Duane on a beautiful day. The only problems were the puffy good-weather clouds that blocked the views of the North Cascades. Fun peak!
Posted Aug 25, 2007 5:03 pm

ericnoelUsual Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2007

ericnoel

A great hike. This is one I might even do again and maybe even stay in the LO to catch the sunset and sunrise with all these great peaks in the surrounding vicinity.
Posted Aug 25, 2007 3:29 pm

PantilatStandard route  Sucess!

Pantilat

Fun times
Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:28 am

NormanNorth Peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1970

Norman

I'm not sure of the day, my slides say August 1970. This was one of my first "rock climbs" with the Seattle Mountaineers as an Intermediate student. It was a memorable day...as most are climbing, right?
Posted Jun 1, 2007 2:06 am

Cascade ScramblerStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2004

Cascade Scrambler

I've climbed to the south finger five times, most recently (summer of '06) with my wife. We started out at 9am, and didn't make it back to the car until 11pm.

My favorite climb was July 5th of '04, my fourth time up. I arrived at the summit of the south finger pretty early on in the day, and stayed the night. I didn't see another person for the whole day, and I had the lookout all to myself all evening and night. Even in July, I was pretty cold through the night. (I underestimated how cold it was going to be.) Incidentally, it was on this trip that I realized that my girlfriend at the time was "the one". It was then and there, in the middle of the night and in the solitude and cold of the lookout, that I decided I'd be an idiot if I didn't propose. I may have froze my ass off that night, but the clarity of the scene enabled me to make the best decision of my life.
Posted Apr 15, 2007 12:50 am

gimpilatorGreat Weather, Great Trip.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 21, 2006

gimpilator

Very nice summit lookout and the ladders were awesome. If you're mostly a hiker like me, this one will test your limits. Bivied at the trailhead the first night and spent the second night on the summit with Tom from NWHikers.net. Impeccable weather conditions. The views were outstanding all around. I felt like I could see every mountain in the North Cascades. This one will not be forgotten.
Posted Oct 23, 2006 2:08 am

jefflach Goat Flats  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2006

jefflach

Beautiful hike. 11hrs round trip. Carried some lumber up to the lookout tower for the mountaineers.
Posted Aug 28, 2006 11:24 pm

osatrik2 with BOEALPS - 1 twice with OSAT  Sucess!

osatrik

The BOEALPS 1989 "President's Climb" is documented in their 25th Anniversary book. I carried a BOEALPS summit register to the less-frequently climbed North peak. The traverse below the summit of the north peak is memorable -- exposure+ on both sides!! Take a rope. While on the south peak lookout, the gap between them was buzzed by a couple of jets from Whidbey Island NAS.
I've been to the south peak 3 times, once on the BOEALPS climb, twice with OSAT. It's a fun climb, with a little of everything.
Posted Aug 25, 2006 6:09 am

renRoute Climbed: Standard 6/26/06  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2006

ren

Very steep snow on the ridge. Took the glacier route on the way back.
Posted Jun 26, 2006 10:42 pm

setrentRoute Climbed: Trail/South Peak Date Climbed: 28 August, 2003  Sucess!
A truly amazing lookout. A must see. Some third class to get to the ladder leading up to the lookout.
Posted Dec 26, 2005 10:25 pm

BicyclebobRoute Climbed: Main trail Date Climbed: 9 October 2005  Sucess!

Bicyclebob

Got to TH at 7:00am and had the place to myself. Cloudy and off and on rain on way up. Got a quick view thru cloudbreak at summit. Lots of rain and people on the way out.
Posted Oct 11, 2005 8:51 pm

esugiRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: October 1, 2005

esugi

Left the car in pouring rain which soon turned to snow. The sun broke through here and there but the clouds never completely cleared. Still, views from TinCan Gap along the ridge is fantastic. We stayed on the rocks and never stepped foot on the glacier, which was very icy. The 2.5 miles between the TH and Saddle Lake is the worst part of this climb and unfortunately, is the last 2.5 miles of your long day.



In crappy conditions, it took us 6 hours up and 4 hours down.
Posted Oct 11, 2005 1:34 am

jtostenrRoute Climbed: Goat Flats Date Climbed: Sept. 25, 2005  Sucess!

jtostenr

Went up to do some maintenance on the lookout. Geat views along the way. Spent the night on top and got to see a nice sunset. So many bluberries!
Posted Sep 26, 2005 2:17 am

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