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bruno baschungnorth face  Sucess!

bruno baschung

North face climbed, good conditions, but very steep (up to 55/60 in a short section)

Bruno baschung
Posted Jun 15, 2008 3:26 pm

iceiswisenorth face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007
Very good conditions! Hard snow almost all the way. In the center part we wrongly climbed an obvious gully going slightly to the left. This gave pleasant climbing for about 60m but then gave a quit hard finish to get into the upper snowfield. Altough this variation gives a 10m long hard mixed part that is not in the same league as the rest of the route, it is a very nice mixed pitch on thin ice. Make a good belay about 25m under the crux.
Climbing down the south-east ridge is longer then expected and involved some rappelling and downclimbing on steep snow.
Posted Sep 19, 2007 11:33 am

ProbemeisterNormal route
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2006
Cheers to Valtho for breaking trail for us then! Your tracks were nicely compacted and made the ascent very easy indeed.
Posted Sep 2, 2006 1:55 pm

CharlesRe: Normal route from Torino hut

Charles

How did the conditions on the north face look?
Posted Jun 8, 2006 3:11 pm

ValthoNormal route from Torino hut  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2006

Valtho

The days before we planned our trip some 70 cm fresh snow fell in the Mont Blanc area and the temperatures were still very cold so we decided to go on skies instead of crampons which is quite exceptional for the time of the year. But the skiing conditions in the Vallee Blanche and the surrounding mountains were still excellent! Although all the fresh snow made it quite hard to get up the first steep section of the Tour Ronde because we were often until our waist into the snow, the reward was great to ski down in very good snow conditions and under a clear blue sky! Further more we were glad that there were only a few more people around at the time we climbed the Tour Ronde because you do not want to be there in July/August and have to wait a long time before all the people have passed the narrow ridge after the first steep section.

We approached the Tour Ronde via the Torino hut which was nice hut with quite decent food but very cold to stay. Only the "dry room", where you can dry your gear, was nice and warm but the rest of the hut was very cold to stay, I think it was still freezing in our bedroom and that in June!
Posted Jun 8, 2006 2:43 pm

SweetswedeRoute Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: June 2004  Sucess!

Sweetswede

No Problemo
Posted Jan 10, 2006 4:27 pm

CharlesRoute Climbed: Sout east ridge Date Climbed: July 1985  Sucess!

Charles

Wanted to go ver to Mont Blanc the next day but the weather broke, oh well..
Posted Nov 28, 2005 8:48 am

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: See Below Date Climbed: See Below  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

SE Ridge -- June 1, 2005 -- Climbed with Philippe Gerschel as our first route of the 2005 season. Temperatures were extremely hot, so a very early start was necessary (3AM). We climbed the entire ridge, starting from the Col des Entreves and reached the summit at 7AM. We took the snow slope in descent and already found soft snow towards the bottom. Back to the Torino Hut by 9:30AM. Very nice route, fairly exposed and more challenging than expected.



North Face -- June 8, 2005 -- Climbed with Philippe Gerschel a week after our ascent of the normal route. Despite relatively warm temperatures for two weeks, the face appeared to be in pretty good shape. We left the Torino Hut at 4AM and reached the bergschrund at around 5:30AM. Crossing the bergschrund was no problem and after this, the face was almost entirely ice, very good on the lower section and through the couloir at mid-height. The exit from the couloir was a bit tricky, being mostly unconsolidated snow and quite steep. The upper face appeared easy, but we found very brittle ice, worsening towards the top. Very tiring to climb, since several swings were necessary to get good placements. We reached the top of the face at around 9:30AM and traversed to join the normal route. The snow in the descent couloir was already very soft, so we made two 50m rappels and then downclimbed past the bergschrund. Tiring walk back to the Torino Hut, where we found that the cable car to Aig du Midi was closed, making necessary a trip to Courmayeur and then back to Chamonix via the Mont Blanc Tunnel. Very rewarding climb - I had my eye on this one for a long time.
Posted Jun 2, 2005 11:25 am

noahRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: summer 04  Sucess!

noah

very cloudy day, didn't really see any of the great views people talk about.
Posted Oct 19, 2004 2:15 am

Chamonix ManRoute Climbed: Gervasutti Couloir Date Climbed: 15th June 2004  Sucess!

Chamonix Man

To get to the start of the Gervasutti Couloir this morning took us 1 hr exactly. An hour and a half later we were at the top of the couloir, and we traversed around the summit to the north before joining the "normal" route to the top. In total the route took 2hrs 50 mins from the Torino hut. The view from the top is one of the best in the Alps. In the distance we could see Monte Rosa, The Matterhorn and the Grand Combin. In the middle distance one gets a very impressive view of the Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte, and closer still, the Brenva face of Mt Blanc and the steep sides of Mt Maudit and Mt Blanc de Tacul stir the imagination for future climbs.
Posted Jun 15, 2004 8:11 am

cherokeeRoute Climbed: North Face and South East Ridge Date Climbed: August 9, 1977  Sucess!

cherokee

A very fine and steep snow route, harder if you come across ice sections. Not to long of a climb if you are in shape and have good front point technique. Excellent for training. If you go down via the South East Ridge route climb the Aiguille d' Entreves!
Posted Jun 2, 2004 3:43 pm

Antonio GianiRoute Climbed: parete Nord Date Climbed: 1972  Sucess!

Antonio Giani

dal rifugio Torino
Posted Apr 13, 2004 2:33 am

maria grazia sRoute Climbed: normal way rif. Torino Date Climbed: 1979  Sucess!

maria grazia s

good conditions
Posted Apr 12, 2004 5:30 pm

fabriziorRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: August 1969  Sucess!

fabrizior

Very nice conditions of the route with fantastic views on Mont Blanc Massif
Posted Oct 1, 2003 4:15 pm

El Tigre ValderramaRoute Climbed: South-East Ridge, Normal Date Climbed: July 29 2003  Sucess!

El Tigre Valderrama

Climbed with my wife Annica Carlsson. Very long and nice climb. The first parts of the ridge are about a UAII III (some 35 meters) and then it turns to be a scramble with some moves of II. The climb goes, as I understood from our route finding and from other climbers, initially on the right of the ridge or even on the snow, and then to a liitle on the ridge itself, then on the left (Italian) side of the mountain, finally gainning the ridge on the upper snow slope.



We descended the route on the gully on the north side of the SE ridge, almost 1/3 of the way down. We reinforced 4 rappel anchors (rock and slings) and after rappeling downclimbed inside the rimaye for a couple of meters, since it had a snow bridge still strong to hold. If you use this option bring 2X50mts ropes to rapel or similar system to have long rappels, then reducing them to 2 instead of 4, save time and avoid manuvering inside the rimaye. The rimaye may not be solid to walk on it, so you better inspect it BEFORE climbing the ridge, from the bottom. It takes 15 minutes to go and see it.

Posted Aug 5, 2003 4:34 pm

jeremyjurgensRoute Climbed: South-East Ridge Date Climbed: March 2003  Sucess!
We caught the morning cable car up from Chamonix and skied across the glacier (1 hour) to the base of the route. This was a far more pleasant approach than the first time I climbed it from the Italian side on foot.



Climbing the ridge is also much more interesting than the face, which anyways can be climbed on the descent.
Posted Jun 19, 2003 10:02 am

denarneRoute Climbed: north face Date Climbed: 05 july 2002  Sucess!
a little bit overwhelming at first whan you gaze at its flanks, entering the Vallée Blanche from the Midi.

but when you actually begin climbing its north face the next day, it's less difficult than it seems, if the conditions are ok. excellent view over the massif !!!

and great climbing! very impressive!
Posted Mar 28, 2003 11:45 am

Andy KennedyRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: 27th July 2002  Sucess!

Andy Kennedy

Climbed With Matt Owen, both of us members of the university of portsmouth climbing club. It was a straight forward climb albeit with some poor snow conditions and fantastic exposure. The veiws from the summit were awesome and there was a great sense of satisfaction having ascended our first north face route. If you want more details of our climb, and eventfull descent then see my trip report.
Posted Aug 16, 2002 10:51 am

Rahel Maria LiuRoute Climbed: Northface Date Climbed: July 22, 2002

Rahel Maria Liu

I climbed the Northface together with Andreas from DAV Ulm. Because of the very bad conditions, we had to make belay during the whole face like all other climbers on that day. The day before very much new snow fell, which did not freeze during the night. So there was much new snow on pure ice - very bad conditions, which also did not make fun. We descended via the normal way including a short cut through the couloir in the North of the ridge.
Posted Aug 4, 2002 7:37 am

Rahel Maria LiuRoute Climbed: Northface Date Climbed: Febr. 2nd, 2001

Rahel Maria Liu

After I had broken off the Contamine Grisolle to the Mont Blanc du Tacul because of the extreme coldness of about -30°C/-22F (although my both companions were continuing the route), I went alone to the glacier plateau of the foot of the Tour Ronde-Northface, knowing that I wouldn't reach the summit that day although not knowing how the day would finally end ... I recognized too late, that the weather was getting worse. Nevertheless, I still reached the Abri Simond Bivouac Hut in the fog although I could not see more then a dark shadow of the end of the Aig. du Midi. My two companions got lost in the fog and the snowstorm on the Géant Glacier. They were also surprised by the sudden weather change like myself and other people and could not return anymore to the Abri Simond. They already wanted to make an unplanned bivouac on the Géant-Glacier (at -30°C and without sleeping-bags etc. .....). After a few hours, they made another attempt - and recognized that they were very close to the Abri Simond Bivouac Hut: just on the S-side of the rock on which the Ref. Cosmiques is located, i.e. a few meters away from the Abri Simond Bivouac, although they thought they were near the E-ridge of the Aig. du Midi .... we have never heard anything anymore about 2 french people who climbed the Chérècouloir that day and were surprised by the weather change as well. They at least did not return to the Abri Simond Bivouac Hut. We did not know whether they also got lost on the Géant Glacier, whether they reached the Aig. du Midi or what happened to them. We also could not inform anybody because we did not have any handy and were being stuck in snow storm in the Abri-Simond-Bivouac Hut.
Posted Mar 5, 2002 11:46 am

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