Tres Picos Group

Overview

Três Picos Group is a secundary range inside Serra dos Órgãos, with the highest peak of Brazilian Sea Range – Pico Maior ( Tres Picos ) with 2316m. Another three mountains composes the massif – Pico Médio ( 2285m ) ; Pico Menor ( 2262m ) and Capacete ( 2200m ). Pico Maior has the biggest wall ( East Wall ) in Brazil territory, with 850m verticals. Capacete has a great east wall to, reaching 600m verticals. This range is a place of great mountains, deep valleys, atlantic and altitude forest, rivers and waterfalls and beautiful roads. Tres Picos Group is formed by 5 sub-groups:

Tres Picos and Capacete ( Main massif );
Torres de Bonsucesso ( NW from Tres Picos );
Fonsecas Mountains ( West );
Sebastianas Mountains ( WSW );
Ronca-Pedra and Cabeça do Dragão ( N and NE ).

The mountains are on the border of two towns : Teresópolis and Nova Friburgo, at Rio de Janeiro State backcountry, 100 / 140 km from Rio de Janeiro.
There are some beautiful roads that cross this mountains like: TereFri highway ( RJ – 130 ) and Estrada do Imperador ( Emperor Road – FRI-001 ). The geology of Tres Picos Group are a granite formations, emerging from the Brazilian Sea Range.

Getting There

The mountains of Tres Picos Group aren’t close, so there are many ways to get this mountains. From Rio de Janeiro, you should to go to Teresópolis or Nova Friburgo , with some of this peaks in the road that connect this two towns.

Driving
To Teresópolis: Take BR-040 to north, after 30 km, turn to the right in BR-116 ( known how Rio-Bahia ) and drive to Teresópolis ( 100 km from Rio ). Before the main entrance of this town, continue on BR-116 road plus 10 km and, the entrance of TereFri highway is to the right again. After few kilometers, is possible to see the mountains, in special, Seio da Mulher de Pedra ( 2040m ) and Torres de Bonsucesso ( 2056m ). Bonsucesso district is the first entrance to climb the north border of Tres Picos mountains. Driving more 15 km ( Vieira District ), the Ronca Pedra big wall shows the bigness of the group. There are some access to Tres Picos mountains at this district. The main entrance of Salinas Valley is 10 km ahead, at Km46. Turn to the right and drive to Tres Picos ( Fri-001 road ).
Rio – Teresópolis ( 100km ) – Bonsucesso ( + 20km ) – Salinas Valley ( + 45km ) total = 165 km from RJ Capital.

By Bus
From Rio Bus Station ( Rodoviária Novo Rio )
Rio de Janeiro x Nova Friburgo
Autoviação 1001
Rio de Janeiro x Teresópolis
Viação Teresópolis .

Arriving in Teresópolis, take this options of urban buses: To Vieira or Bonsucesso districts.
Arriving in Nova Friburgo, go to the bus terminal at downtown ( any bus to North ) and, you can choose two lines to go to Tres Picos :
Downtown x São Lourenço;
Downtown x Santa Cruz.

Red Tape

Tres Picos Group is inside of APA dos Frades ( Frades Area Protection ) but, there aren’t structures to offer camping area, lodgings and informations center. For all the mountains the acess is free. Just to cross the trail Friburgo x Teresópolis ( Circuito TereFri ) you need to get permission of Parque Estadual dos Tres Picos ( Tres Picos State Park ) to walk or climb inside the perimeter. Of course, there are other ways to get the trailheads but, I do not recommend.

Camping

The best place to camp close to the mountains is in Vale dos Deuses ( Deuses Valley ), beside Tres Picos and Capacete ( Inside Tres Picos State Park )



Where to Stay

Refúgio Tres Picos

Climbing Routes

The main routes in Tres Picos Group

Pico Maior ( 2316m )– Tres Picos Group

Route	Graduation	Pico Maior – 2316m
Arco da Velha	6º VIIa E3	Pico Maior / NE Wall
Cabeça Dinossauro	6º VIIa (A0/VIIc) E5	Pico Maior / N Wall
Cidade dos Ventos	6º (A0/VIIIa ) E3	Pico Maior / NW Wall
Décadence avec Élegance	5º VIsup (A0/VIIc) E2	Pico Maior / E Wall
Disk-Dique	7º VIIIa A0	Pico Maior / N Wall
Filhos da Terra	5º VII A1 E4	Pico Maior / E Wall
José Cândido	4º	Pico Maior / N Wall
Maria Maluca	6º VI E4	Pico Maior / N Wall
Matheus Arnaud	?	Pico Maior / E Wall
Olimpíadas das Andorinhas	8º A0 E2	Pico Maior / E Wall
Paradoxo	6º VI E5	Pico Maior / E Wall
Pontão do Sol	5º V E2	Pico Maior / E Wall
Pontão Rachado	?	Pico Maior / N Wall
Psilosibis	4º E5	Pico Maior / E Wall
Quarto Minguante	5º V E4	Pico Maior / E Wall
Sol Celeste	5º Vsup E3	Pico Maior / E Wall
The Wall	7º VIIa A2 E3	Pico Maior / N Wall
Via Leste	5º (A0/VIsup) E3	Pico Maior / E Wall
Via Sul	4º E3	Pico Maior / E Wall
Abracadabra	6º VIsup (A1/VIIb ) E3	Pico Maior / W Wall
Sílvio Mendes	4º IV (A1/VIIa) E2	Pico Maior / W Wall

Pico Médio ( 2285m ) - Três Picos Group

Route	Graduation	Pico Medio – 2285m
Beija Flor	3º IIIsup A1	Pico Médio / North Face
Flor de Gravatá	??	Pico Médio / North Face
Bagas do Médio	5º E5	Pico Médio / W Wall

Pico Menor ( 2262m ) – Três Picos Group

Route	Graduation	Pico Menor – 2262m
Lacas Loucas	7º VIIa (A0/VIIIa)	Pico Menor / East Face
Chaminé Pelegrini	5º IIIsup A1	Pico Menor / East Face

Capacete ( 2200m ) – Três Picos Group

Route	Graduation	Capacete – 2200m
Rodolfo Chermont	3º IVsup (A1/VIsup) E1	East Face
Sérgio Jacob	5º E3	East Face
Batman Nunca Mais	5º V A0 E3	North Face
Beco da Coruja	6º E3	East Face
CERJ	5º VIsup (A1/VIsup) E2	North Face
Colé Cumpadi	4º VI E3	East Face
Devaneios	6º VIIa	East Face
Fata Morgana	5º V E3	North Face
Variante Giuliano	IVsup	North Face
Variante Insetos	5º E3	North Face
Meninos Perdidos	5º V E5	North Face
Os Quatro Inimigos	5º	East Face
Pança de Mamute	5º E4	North Face
Roberta Groba	5º Vsup E3	North Face
Samba do Crioulo Doido	5º Vsup E4	North Face
Sólidas Ilusões	5º V E5	North Face
Ura-Ura Rapaz	5º VI E4	North Face

Tres Picos Group Weather Conditions

Teresópolis Town Weather

Nova Friburgo Town Weather

Southeast Region Weather

Mountains of Tres Picos Group

Coming soon...

Pico Maior - 2316m - highest point
Menor, Medio and Maior - main massif
Capacete - 2200m
Seio da Mulher de Pedra region - 2040m
Ronca Pedra - 2080m

Images

View Tres Picos Group Image Gallery - 5 Images