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Tres Picos Group
Area/Range

Tres Picos Group

 
Tres Picos Group

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, South America

Lat/Lon: 22.345°S / 42.727°W

Object Title: Tres Picos Group

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Big Wall, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7598 ft / 2316 m

 

Page By: Mountainfriend

Created/Edited: Apr 12, 2006 / Nov 13, 2009

Object ID: 187740

Hits: 2797 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview

Três Picos Group is a secundary range inside Serra dos Órgãos, with the highest peak of Brazilian Sea Range – Pico Maior ( Tres Picos ) with 2316m. Another three mountains composes the massif – Pico Médio ( 2285m ) ; Pico Menor ( 2262m ) and Capacete ( 2200m ). Pico Maior has the biggest wall ( East Wall ) in Brazil territory, with 850m verticals. Capacete has a great east wall to, reaching 600m verticals. This range is a place of great mountains, deep valleys, atlantic and altitude forest, rivers and waterfalls and beautiful roads. Tres Picos Group is formed by 5 sub-groups:

Tres Picos and Capacete ( Main massif );
Torres de Bonsucesso ( NW from Tres Picos );
Fonsecas Mountains ( West );
Sebastianas Mountains ( WSW );
Ronca-Pedra and Cabeça do Dragão ( N and NE ).

The mountains are on the border of two towns : Teresópolis and Nova Friburgo, at Rio de Janeiro State backcountry, 100 / 140 km from Rio de Janeiro.
There are some beautiful roads that cross this mountains like: TereFri highway ( RJ – 130 ) and Estrada do Imperador ( Emperor Road – FRI-001 ). The geology of Tres Picos Group are a granite formations, emerging from the Brazilian Sea Range.
 
Tres Picos Group
Tres Picos Group

Getting There

The mountains of Tres Picos Group aren’t close, so there are many ways to get this mountains. From Rio de Janeiro, you should to go to Teresópolis or Nova Friburgo , with some of this peaks in the road that connect this two towns.

Driving
To Teresópolis: Take BR-040 to north, after 30 km, turn to the right in BR-116 ( known how Rio-Bahia ) and drive to Teresópolis ( 100 km from Rio ). Before the main entrance of this town, continue on BR-116 road plus 10 km and, the entrance of TereFri highway is to the right again. After few kilometers, is possible to see the mountains, in special, Seio da Mulher de Pedra ( 2040m ) and Torres de Bonsucesso ( 2056m ). Bonsucesso district is the first entrance to climb the north border of Tres Picos mountains. Driving more 15 km ( Vieira District ), the Ronca Pedra big wall shows the bigness of the group. There are some access to Tres Picos mountains at this district. The main entrance of Salinas Valley is 10 km ahead, at Km46. Turn to the right and drive to Tres Picos ( Fri-001 road ).
Rio – Teresópolis ( 100km ) – Bonsucesso ( + 20km ) – Salinas Valley ( + 45km ) total = 165 km from RJ Capital.

By Bus
From Rio Bus Station ( Rodoviária Novo Rio )
Rio de Janeiro x Nova Friburgo
Autoviação 1001
Rio de Janeiro x Teresópolis
Viação Teresópolis .

Arriving in Teresópolis, take this options of urban buses: To Vieira or Bonsucesso districts.
Arriving in Nova Friburgo, go to the bus terminal at downtown ( any bus to North ) and, you can choose two lines to go to Tres Picos :
Downtown x São Lourenço;
Downtown x Santa Cruz
.

Red Tape

Tres Picos Group is inside of APA dos Frades ( Frades Area Protection ) but, there aren’t structures to offer camping area, lodgings and informations center. For all the mountains the acess is free. Just to cross the trail Friburgo x Teresópolis ( Circuito TereFri ) you need to get permission of Parque Estadual dos Tres Picos ( Tres Picos State Park ) to walk or climb inside the perimeter. Of course, there are other ways to get the trailheads but, I do not recommend.

Camping

The best place to camp close to the mountains is in Vale dos Deuses ( Deuses Valley ), beside Tres Picos and Capacete ( Inside Tres Picos State Park )

Camping Tres Picos
Camping close to Tres Picos


Where to Stay

Refúgio Tres Picos
 
Refugio Tres Picos
Refúgio Tres picos

Climbing Routes

The main routes in Tres Picos Group

Pico Maior ( 2316m )– Tres Picos Group



Route Graduation Pico Maior – 2316m
Arco da Velha 6º VIIa E3 Pico Maior / NE Wall
Cabeça Dinossauro 6º VIIa (A0/VIIc) E5 Pico Maior / N Wall
Cidade dos Ventos 6º (A0/VIIIa ) E3 Pico Maior / NW Wall
Décadence avec Élegance 5º VIsup (A0/VIIc) E2 Pico Maior / E Wall
Disk-Dique 7º VIIIa A0 Pico Maior / N Wall
Filhos da Terra 5º VII A1 E4 Pico Maior / E Wall
José Cândido Pico Maior / N Wall
Maria Maluca 6º VI E4 Pico Maior / N Wall
Matheus Arnaud ? Pico Maior / E Wall
Olimpíadas das Andorinhas 8º A0 E2 Pico Maior / E Wall
Paradoxo 6º VI E5 Pico Maior / E Wall
Pontão do Sol 5º V E2 Pico Maior / E Wall
Pontão Rachado ? Pico Maior / N Wall
Psilosibis 4º E5 Pico Maior / E Wall
Quarto Minguante 5º V E4 Pico Maior / E Wall
Sol Celeste 5º Vsup E3 Pico Maior / E Wall
The Wall 7º VIIa A2 E3 Pico Maior / N Wall
Via Leste 5º (A0/VIsup) E3 Pico Maior / E Wall
Via Sul 4º E3 Pico Maior / E Wall
Abracadabra 6º VIsup (A1/VIIb ) E3 Pico Maior / W Wall
Sílvio Mendes 4º IV (A1/VIIa) E2 Pico Maior / W Wall

Celebration to rise this big...
Pico Maior East/North Wall



Pico Médio ( 2285m ) - Três Picos Group



Route Graduation Pico Medio – 2285m
Beija Flor 3º IIIsup A1 Pico Médio / North Face
Flor de Gravatá ?? Pico Médio / North Face
Bagas do Médio 5º E5 Pico Médio / W Wall


Pico Menor ( 2262m ) – Três Picos Group



Route Graduation Pico Menor – 2262m
Lacas Loucas 7º VIIa (A0/VIIIa) Pico Menor / East Face
Chaminé Pelegrini 5º IIIsup A1 Pico Menor / East Face


Capacete ( 2200m ) – Três Picos Group



Route Graduation Capacete – 2200m
Rodolfo Chermont 3º IVsup (A1/VIsup) E1 East Face
Sérgio Jacob 5º E3 East Face
Batman Nunca Mais 5º V A0 E3 North Face
Beco da Coruja 6º E3 East Face
CERJ 5º VIsup (A1/VIsup) E2 North Face
Colé Cumpadi 4º VI E3 East Face
Devaneios 6º VIIa East Face
Fata Morgana 5º V E3 North Face
Variante Giuliano IVsup North Face
Variante Insetos 5º E3 North Face
Meninos Perdidos 5º V E5 North Face
Os Quatro Inimigos East Face
Pança de Mamute 5º E4 North Face
Roberta Groba 5º Vsup E3 North Face
Samba do Crioulo Doido 5º Vsup E4 North Face
Sólidas Ilusões 5º V E5 North Face
Ura-Ura Rapaz 5º VI E4 North Face

Capacete North Wall
Capacete North Wall

Tres Picos Group Weather Conditions

Teresópolis Town Weather

Nova Friburgo Town Weather

Southeast Region Weather

Mountains of Tres Picos Group

Coming soon...

Pico Maior - 2316m - highest point
Menor, Medio and Maior - main massif
Capacete - 2200m
Seio da Mulher de Pedra region - 2040m
Ronca Pedra - 2080m





Images

Tres Picos and CapaceteA great day to hike and climb on 3 PicosThe Great East Wall Pico Maior e CapaceteFace Leste route