Dow Williams - Apr 26, 2016 11:18 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2016
Run for your Life, 5.10b
The only 4 star sport climb at this grade in Miramontes guide. I do not sport climb much at Jtree, but thought that it was not worth the 4 star label. I will say the it is sporty as hell, exposed run out start on 5.9/5.10a crimps to a rusty bolt (2016). Then continued spacing between five more bolts to the top. Most moves were at the grade with one sequence option. The route keeps traversing left and several of the harder moves involve the traversing. The crux is past the last bolt and before you top out and includes the most powerful move for sure. A slight lay back gets your right fingers on a sharp flake just below the summit. Once you commit your left fingers to the same flake it is full on commitment time as you layback to get your left foot high up on a edge. The final mantel over the summit edge is a bit awkward but way easier compared to anything else you just did. Rap and/or top rope via Runaway.
Dow Williams - Apr 26, 2016 11:16 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2016
Tumbling Rainbow, 5.9
Outstanding route and probably deserves a 3rd star at a minimum. Starts shading itself past noon in April. I prefer to be belayed way down low so my belayer can get some shade and not have to do the 4th class scramble. Makes the climb more like 130’. It cannot be top roped off of Runaway’s anchors, they are too far to the left. Build a medium gear belay, get lowered to the ledge and then bring your 2nd up to the ledge or just bring your 2nd up to the summit. I placed a C4#5 and #6 but no #4. I suppose you could use a pair of #4’s in place of these two, but the wide pieces were ideal. Take two #3’s as one is good for the gear belay on the summit. Single rack from #.5 for the rest of it. A #.75 starts you off to hands. Grows wide as you slot your right foot up. Nothing overwhelming when it comes to off-width but sustained at the grade. The 2nd half is straight up and where I used the #5. Scramble to the summit to find a gear belay. When done, rap Runaway.
Dow Williams - Apr 26, 2016 11:08 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2016
Fisticuffs, 5.10b**
For some reason Marc does not have Fisticuffs on this page, but it is one of the better 5.10- splitter leads in Jtree albeit short. Too short but a must do when targeting Tumbling Rainbow (5.9) as they are within meters of each other. In April, does not get shade until approximately noon. I used 2 #3’s and one #4, three pieces of gear total. After a hand jam or two, the #2’s tip out. Bring another #4 if you want to set a top rope, otherwise there is a feature on top to sling for bringing the 2nd up but not at an angle to top rope. Hands lead to a couple of perfect fists for most men at least. At the very end when it gets a bit wider you grab onto the right lip. Walk right to the tree then turn left and scramble down the backside. Soft for the grade for Jtree.
Dow Williams - Apr 26, 2016 11:18 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2016
Run for your Life, 5.10bThe only 4 star sport climb at this grade in Miramontes guide. I do not sport climb much at Jtree, but thought that it was not worth the 4 star label. I will say the it is sporty as hell, exposed run out start on 5.9/5.10a crimps to a rusty bolt (2016). Then continued spacing between five more bolts to the top. Most moves were at the grade with one sequence option. The route keeps traversing left and several of the harder moves involve the traversing. The crux is past the last bolt and before you top out and includes the most powerful move for sure. A slight lay back gets your right fingers on a sharp flake just below the summit. Once you commit your left fingers to the same flake it is full on commitment time as you layback to get your left foot high up on a edge. The final mantel over the summit edge is a bit awkward but way easier compared to anything else you just did. Rap and/or top rope via Runaway.
Dow Williams - Apr 26, 2016 11:16 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2016
Tumbling Rainbow, 5.9Outstanding route and probably deserves a 3rd star at a minimum. Starts shading itself past noon in April. I prefer to be belayed way down low so my belayer can get some shade and not have to do the 4th class scramble. Makes the climb more like 130’. It cannot be top roped off of Runaway’s anchors, they are too far to the left. Build a medium gear belay, get lowered to the ledge and then bring your 2nd up to the ledge or just bring your 2nd up to the summit. I placed a C4#5 and #6 but no #4. I suppose you could use a pair of #4’s in place of these two, but the wide pieces were ideal. Take two #3’s as one is good for the gear belay on the summit. Single rack from #.5 for the rest of it. A #.75 starts you off to hands. Grows wide as you slot your right foot up. Nothing overwhelming when it comes to off-width but sustained at the grade. The 2nd half is straight up and where I used the #5. Scramble to the summit to find a gear belay. When done, rap Runaway.
Dow Williams - Apr 26, 2016 11:08 am Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2016
Fisticuffs, 5.10b**For some reason Marc does not have Fisticuffs on this page, but it is one of the better 5.10- splitter leads in Jtree albeit short. Too short but a must do when targeting Tumbling Rainbow (5.9) as they are within meters of each other. In April, does not get shade until approximately noon. I used 2 #3’s and one #4, three pieces of gear total. After a hand jam or two, the #2’s tip out. Bring another #4 if you want to set a top rope, otherwise there is a feature on top to sling for bringing the 2nd up but not at an angle to top rope. Hands lead to a couple of perfect fists for most men at least. At the very end when it gets a bit wider you grab onto the right lip. Walk right to the tree then turn left and scramble down the backside. Soft for the grade for Jtree.