Thank you for this nice page, as promised. I learned a lot about the mountain. I hope you like the pictures I posted.
IMHO the main reason that Turnerkamp is not climbed that often as other mountains of the Zillertal Alps is its difficulty. In the overview you tell about UIAA I, but even the SE flank – as you tell later – is to rate UIAA II (II- says my german guidebook from 1983). In my early days that was the reason for me not to attempt Turnerkamp. I've read about a significant danger of stonefall there.
I have no own experiences, but each german source I read tells the difficulty of the south ridge with UIAA III-IV, some tell you should cope with UIAA V at the crux. You surely are a better climber than I am…. Does Italian literature rates the south ridge as low as you write?
As William supposed: it would be better to build more sections especially dividing the "getting there". This sector is meant for the approach by car or public transport, not for the climb itself.
"Camping" could be "accommodation" with some info about the mountain huts
Routes overview according to german guidebook "Zillertaler Alpen", Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1983:
-SE-flank, normal route from Nevesjoch / Giovanni Porro hut, UIAA II-, 4 h
-SW-flank "Engländerrinne", UIAA II, 7 h from Berliner hut (but also possible from Nevesjoch / Giovanni Porro hut)
-East ridge, UIAA III-, 3-4 h from Trattenjoch pass (but 4 h approach to there from Berliner hut and not much shorter from Nevesjoch / Porro hut) – A. Wagner, E. Wagner, with guide H. Hoerhager 1891
-North face, UIAA IV+, height of the face 350 m - Dr. Drasch, Dr. Jurek, 1889
-NW ridge, UIAA III, W. Kendrick with guides Kederbacher and S. Fankhauser 1892; not that nice because some parts have to be climbed in the crumbly left face
Are you sure that camping is forbidden? For example the plain "Moos" in upper Trattenbach valley could be a nice campsite from where Turnerkamp could be attempted
Some typos:
Schvarzenstein -> Schwarzenstein
Hohenweg -> Hoehenweg
terminal crevasse -> bergschrund (a german word, but common in english!)
Thank for your comments, photos and corrections, always useful.
The difficulties cited in Overview are related to the routes climbed by me in the past. I had to specify this, if I would to be absolutely correct ! Normal route is at most II (my Italian guide-book does not report the UIAA classification). This route is characterised by the difficulty of the terminal crevasse (different every year) and by the risk of rock falling down. The South ridge is mostly II-III (as also a local "bergfhurer" rated this route). I remember the difficulty caused by an edge to be go around (more than 15 minutes to do this). Anyway, as I have not indication by my guide-book, I can also report the larger UIAA range cited by you. Do you agree ? The descent by the South flank is certainly more difficult than by the Normal route but in my opinion not more III. I dont'know the other routes so that I accept your indication.
Camping: I should investigate more, but if I well remember the camping is at least discouraged.
Finally, taking into account all the comments received, I'll try to improve the text of the page.
as said I have not climbed Turnerkamp yet (but after reading your page I want to!).
If I were you than I would quote the difficulty from the guidebooks (what scale use the italian books?) and tell in addition that you yourself think it is easier.
camping: I looked a bit in the net: the italian side of Turnerkamp is not part of the parco naturale. So probably camping is not forbidden as long as it not in a special biotop.
This is very important mountain and I'm glad that Zillertal Alps are getting more and more complete! You did a very fine page, even if it's not finished yet. I would also recommend you to post each route with the 'Add a Route' option. This way others will be able to contribute a detailed descriptions and pictures by each route.
Bor - Nov 26, 2004 10:59 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNice page and very informative!
Cheers!
Lupino - Nov 26, 2004 11:03 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentFollowing the spirit of SP I'm trying to describe what I have really done, but I cannot be exaustive as a book
Thank a lot, Bor
Gabriele Roth - Nov 26, 2004 11:57 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentWilliam Marler - Nov 26, 2004 2:28 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNice page. Some more paragraph breaks in the intro will help with the readablity. But otherwise a good page. Cheers William
Dean - Nov 26, 2004 5:52 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNice page.
Lupino - Nov 27, 2004 3:31 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled Commentthank you, Dean
desainme - Nov 26, 2004 10:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentGood description of mountain and huts . Nice border peak.
Lupino - Nov 27, 2004 3:29 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks
mtwashingtonmonroe - Nov 26, 2004 11:25 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNicely done page! Lots of great photos and information that will get someone to the summit. Very nicely done and have a good one!
-Britt
Lupino - Nov 27, 2004 3:27 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you very much for your nice comment. Most photos are posted by Mathias. I have not digital pic.
Paolo
Mathias Zehring - Nov 27, 2004 3:52 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentThank you for this nice page, as promised. I learned a lot about the mountain. I hope you like the pictures I posted.
IMHO the main reason that Turnerkamp is not climbed that often as other mountains of the Zillertal Alps is its difficulty. In the overview you tell about UIAA I, but even the SE flank – as you tell later – is to rate UIAA II (II- says my german guidebook from 1983). In my early days that was the reason for me not to attempt Turnerkamp. I've read about a significant danger of stonefall there.
I have no own experiences, but each german source I read tells the difficulty of the south ridge with UIAA III-IV, some tell you should cope with UIAA V at the crux. You surely are a better climber than I am…. Does Italian literature rates the south ridge as low as you write?
As William supposed: it would be better to build more sections especially dividing the "getting there". This sector is meant for the approach by car or public transport, not for the climb itself.
"Camping" could be "accommodation" with some info about the mountain huts
Routes overview according to german guidebook "Zillertaler Alpen", Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1983:
-SE-flank, normal route from Nevesjoch / Giovanni Porro hut, UIAA II-, 4 h
-SW-flank "Engländerrinne", UIAA II, 7 h from Berliner hut (but also possible from Nevesjoch / Giovanni Porro hut)
-East ridge, UIAA III-, 3-4 h from Trattenjoch pass (but 4 h approach to there from Berliner hut and not much shorter from Nevesjoch / Porro hut) – A. Wagner, E. Wagner, with guide H. Hoerhager 1891
-North face, UIAA IV+, height of the face 350 m - Dr. Drasch, Dr. Jurek, 1889
-NW ridge, UIAA III, W. Kendrick with guides Kederbacher and S. Fankhauser 1892; not that nice because some parts have to be climbed in the crumbly left face
Are you sure that camping is forbidden? For example the plain "Moos" in upper Trattenbach valley could be a nice campsite from where Turnerkamp could be attempted
Some typos:
Schvarzenstein -> Schwarzenstein
Hohenweg -> Hoehenweg
terminal crevasse -> bergschrund (a german word, but common in english!)
Grosser Moseler -> Grosser Moeseler
Lupino - Nov 27, 2004 12:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank for your comments, photos and corrections, always useful.
The difficulties cited in Overview are related to the routes climbed by me in the past. I had to specify this, if I would to be absolutely correct ! Normal route is at most II (my Italian guide-book does not report the UIAA classification). This route is characterised by the difficulty of the terminal crevasse (different every year) and by the risk of rock falling down. The South ridge is mostly II-III (as also a local "bergfhurer" rated this route). I remember the difficulty caused by an edge to be go around (more than 15 minutes to do this). Anyway, as I have not indication by my guide-book, I can also report the larger UIAA range cited by you. Do you agree ? The descent by the South flank is certainly more difficult than by the Normal route but in my opinion not more III. I dont'know the other routes so that I accept your indication.
Camping: I should investigate more, but if I well remember the camping is at least discouraged.
Finally, taking into account all the comments received, I'll try to improve the text of the page.
Thanks again,
Paolo
Mathias Zehring - Nov 28, 2004 8:48 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentHi Paolo
as said I have not climbed Turnerkamp yet (but after reading your page I want to!).
If I were you than I would quote the difficulty from the guidebooks (what scale use the italian books?) and tell in addition that you yourself think it is easier.
camping: I looked a bit in the net: the italian side of Turnerkamp is not part of the parco naturale. So probably camping is not forbidden as long as it not in a special biotop.
Mathias
Gangolf Haub - Nov 27, 2004 5:21 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentA very good page! I'm happy that Mathias already posted his pictures so that I am spared the embarassment of posting my single one ;-)
Vid Pogachnik - Nov 27, 2004 5:49 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentThis is very important mountain and I'm glad that Zillertal Alps are getting more and more complete! You did a very fine page, even if it's not finished yet. I would also recommend you to post each route with the 'Add a Route' option. This way others will be able to contribute a detailed descriptions and pictures by each route.
Lupino - Nov 27, 2004 1:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentCiao Vid,
thank you for the comments. I think your suggestion will be followed.
Paolo
wuedesau - Dec 3, 2004 3:50 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentConsidering that the page is still under construction it is very well done!
Lupino - Dec 3, 2004 6:15 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks. I must improve some sections and add the correction/suggestions of Mathias.
Michael Prittwitz - Feb 21, 2005 1:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentA fine page! I hope to see this beautiful summit in this yea at first time with my own eyes.
Michael
Lupino - Feb 22, 2005 11:59 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks you. It is a good idea few days in Ahrntal. hope in new photos for the page.