The direct 5.10 exit to the pillar mentioned in the Moynier/Fiddler guide does not follow the prow of the pillar for its entirety, rather I added the exit as a variation to the final pitch when Brennan and I did it years ago. When it is very clear that you are nearing the summit ridge, hand traverse out left from the regular finish on an obvious horizontal crack. A few 5.10 moves through this area bring you to the very summit. The finish is similar in exposure and feeling to (though the moves in no way resemble) the last pitch of Third Pillar of Dana.
brutus of wyde - Aug 6, 2006 4:03 pm - Hasn't voted
slight correctionThe direct 5.10 exit to the pillar mentioned in the Moynier/Fiddler guide does not follow the prow of the pillar for its entirety, rather I added the exit as a variation to the final pitch when Brennan and I did it years ago. When it is very clear that you are nearing the summit ridge, hand traverse out left from the regular finish on an obvious horizontal crack. A few 5.10 moves through this area bring you to the very summit. The finish is similar in exposure and feeling to (though the moves in no way resemble) the last pitch of Third Pillar of Dana.
Brutus