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Upper Exum Ridge Climber's Log

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dstevenson0204One Day Push  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2014

dstevenson0204

So amazing! One of the best days of my life in the mountains so far!! Ran into Jimmy Chin and Conrad Ankor too. It was sick
Posted Oct 11, 2014 12:27 pm

McCannsterSolo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2013

McCannster

Car to car solo in 15 hours. Awesome route.
Posted Aug 24, 2013 10:48 pm

scgrantFantastic Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013

scgrant

8/14/2013 Climbed this route with Exum guides. We left base camp at the saddle at 4:15 am. Climbing the first several pitches in the dark was interesting. The Step Across in the dark sure got the blood pumping. We started seeing our first signs of light as we entered the Wind Tunnel. We reached the summit a little before 8 am and enjoyed a little over a half hour of ideal conditions on top. Our descent was by way of the 100' rappel and the OS route. Awesome experience.
Posted Aug 15, 2013 4:27 pm

JonWFast  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

JonW

Simul'ed after the lower exum. Passed a bunch of parties lost and pitching it out.
Posted Jun 28, 2013 9:57 am

FletchSweet Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2012

Fletch

Hazy at the top and the descent was a little cold and icy, but a great day nonetheless.
Posted Oct 22, 2012 4:14 pm

PanamaRedFirst Lead   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011

PanamaRed

It was my first time leading climbing. Needless to say it was awsome! Wall Street was quite a rush, as well as the V pitch! I recently climbed it again on September 1, 2013, and once again had a blast!. We did the route car to car. My foot was killing me on the descent however, and it took me all night to get back to the car.
Posted Sep 29, 2012 7:08 pm

SarahThompsonFun scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012

SarahThompson

Mostly a scramble. Led cruxy friction pitch. Cool rock.
Posted Aug 12, 2012 11:32 am

strudolyubovUpper Exum Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011

strudolyubov

Solo climb of the Upper Exum on a one-day ascent from Lupine Meadows. Rapelled Owen-Spalding. 12 hours total car-to-car. Fun climbing on an incredible rock, nice exposure/position, stellar views -- classic route!

Click here to see the Upper Exum Ridge picture album.
Posted Sep 5, 2011 4:32 pm

maraudersClassic  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011

marauders

Always a classic climb.
Posted Aug 31, 2011 4:48 pm

Pfeiffer75Awesome  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2011

Pfeiffer75

Awesome climb, an experience I will never forget. I have never been so cold while in the Wind Tunnel waiting for other climbers to go forward.
Posted Aug 15, 2011 11:05 pm

aedwardsUpper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2011

aedwards

Fun.
Posted Aug 9, 2011 10:58 am

Ted EliasonLittle more than an exposed scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

Ted Eliason

The views by reputation are stunning, but not much to see when weather has come in. A jagged scramble past some pretty exposed terrain in spots. Placed very little pro on the route.
Posted Aug 1, 2011 7:29 pm

bennersAwesome  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010

benners

Sweet route. Blitzed it in 13 hours car to car.
Posted Jan 31, 2011 1:34 pm

GumbieUpper Exum  Sucess!

Gumbie

3/5 stars
Posted Oct 1, 2010 7:23 am

heather14Great Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010

heather14

After only an hour of sleep thanks to the wind blasting through the Moraine all night we managed to make it up with amazing weather. The Leap of Faith off Wall Street gets your attention. Interesting route finding (we joined with a team that had done it before, but still had to do a little route finding). We went too far right and missed the V pitch, but made up for it with the fun "boulder move". Great mountain, route and day. Can't wait to come back...
Posted Aug 8, 2010 9:06 am

David MortensenUpper Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 1996

David Mortensen

Excellent route to the top.
Posted Jul 27, 2010 3:13 am

pyergerupper Exum  Sucess!

pyerger

I have done this route twice, and will do it again. Mountain climbing at it's finest.
Posted Jul 23, 2010 5:02 pm

rockrat2classic climb  Sucess!

rockrat2

Awesome climb, one of my favorites!
Posted Jun 20, 2010 8:58 pm

reboylesDescent Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1973

reboyles

Not really knowing where we were going, Mike Weber and I solo downclimbed the Upper Exum after climbing the Smith Otter Body route on the south side. We had intended to do the Exum but got off track above the caves (no trail back then) and ended up on the Teepe Glacier so we picked route 11 that isn't described in Ortenburger's condensed guide and just went for what looked like the best way up. Underestimating the scale of the Grand, we spent an unplanned bivy at 13,000'. On our way down the next morning a climbing ranger told us that the route (The Smith) had not had a repeat ascent in over 20 years. We came back two years later and soloed the Upper Exum from the bottom up.
Posted Mar 1, 2010 1:59 pm

shanahan96two-faced upper exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2009

shanahan96

what a difference the sun makes!

A.J. and i froze our butts(and feet) off during the golden staircase and wind tunnel pitches while being trapped in the shade with the wind howling. things got considerably better on the higher friction and V-notch pitches when we finally reached the sun!

all in all an awesome experience i'll never forget. can't wait to try some other routes on the grand and surrounding mountains!

jamie
Posted Aug 16, 2009 4:46 pm

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