On the way from Langtang to Kyangjin, you will see a perfectly shaped snowy peak, which is situated slightly south of Naya Kanga (5,844m). seen from the southwest, Urkema peak almost looks like Ama Dablam, which is situated in the Everest region. However, from the southeast – the side we approached the 5,800m peak – the summit appears like a snowy cone, with a perfect ridge to be climbed on its southeast side.
Route description to Urkema Peak High Camp – about 7 hours from Kyanjing
ascent 1,270 metres
Just above the houses, the yak trail continues to the east leading through the rhododendrons. Cross another little stream and head towards the ridge to the left of the slope. There are several yak trails, but you might end up cutting through the shrubs. Continue up the ridge through dense shrubbery until you get to two big cairns at 4,135 metres (Latitude: 28’1125.4/Longitude: 85’3249.2).
Keep to the left of the rocky peak – the path follows a dried river bed, leading over rocky terrain up to another ridge (Latitude: 28’1111.9) Longitude: 85’3240.5).
To the north, you have a magnificent view of Langtang Lirung, Langshisa Ri and Xixapangma in Tibet. To the south, the impressive south face of Naya Kanga (5,844 metres) is towering above you.
The Climb ( High Camp to summit takes about 7 hours).
Ascent about 1,000 meters
From high camp, cross the rocky field and climb up about 50 meters until you get to a rocky slab on the right. From there, ascend the snowy 30 degree slop (crampons are recommended) that leads to a glacier, which soon becomes a large glacial bowl. Zigag your way up, always keeping to the right. Aim towards the rock face to the west. From here, the slope gets a little bit steeper – about 40 degrees. A fixed rope is recommended for groups. Stay on the ice and climb around the rocks until you get to the top of the ridge at about 5,500 meteres. From here, traverse east until you reach the southeast ridge of the mountain. Ascend the ridge at about 50 degrees until you get to the top. Descend by the same route.
Getting ThereUrkema peak is located in the Langtang region which is north of Kathmandu. The trail starts in Syabru Besi and go through Lama Hotel, Langtang Village and Kyangjin Gompa.
You can take a bus from Kathmandu to Syabru Besi (around 3US$ and 10 hours depending on the road condition).
Red TapeIn order to climb Urkema peak, you need a permit issued by the Mountaineering Association of Nepal (NMA). Contact them or Explore Himalaya (the only Nepali agency running commercial expedition on Urkema) for its cost.
CampingAdd Camping text here.
External LinksExplore Himalaya - Urkema Peak Trip
Climbing report 2008 (in French)
Everest base camp trek
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