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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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31.00010°N / 78.33150°E |
Route Type:
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Basic Snow/Glacier Climb |
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Time Required:
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Expedition |
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Difficulty:
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significant exposure, roped climbing, some belay with protection, 5 days to complete. |
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Approach
From Delhi or Mussoorie go to Uttarkashi and then on to Sangam Chatti which is the traihead. Follow a well defined trail to Dodital lake. The next leg takes you over the Darwa pass. Here the trail is less defined in spots. Decsend the pass keeping to the right and find a log bridge to cross over the Hanuman Ganga River. The trail ascends steeply to the bugyal (alpine meadow) and stays to the high side. Ascend the hills at the end of the bugyal from a gully on the right and follow the ridge to a plateau. Descend one of the less steep gullies to the fork in the Hanuman Ganga River. Follow the right fork to the middle of the base of the SW ridge.
Route Description
As you approach the face you will see a prominent gully in the massif flanked on the left by a large buttress. Follow the gully and gain the top of the butress to the left where a good campsite is available. Beware this gully is an avalanche chute !
Follow the ridgeline to near the top and traverse left to avoid a glacier at the top and summit the ridgeline between the glacier and a spur on your left. Good campsites are available on top of the ridge.
Follow the ridge NW towards the summit. There is an approximately 300 foot rock and snow wall to be overcome. Camp as high as possible or convenient. From there you may gain the summit snowfield staying towards the northside to avoid the large glacier spilling down toward the South. The last obstacle is the summit icecap which has a steep pitch and a cornice on the eastern side.
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Essential Gear
Crampons, ice axe, rope, some snow / ice belay anchors