Mouse Traverse

Approach

This is a 2500’+ total ascent day. Cross Fryatt Creek from the Sydney Vallance Hut, turn right and proceed to the first (mostly dry) creek bed you come to. Then turn left and follow this creek bed until you ascend upon a clearing. Angle right onto a nice meadow ridge that dumps you onto a moraine ridge that leads directly up to the middle mouse.

Route Description

Follow the ridge line to Middle Mouse. This bit of scrambling is easy as is the quick jaunt northeast over to Minnie Mouse which provides you with a great look at the south ridge of Lowell. Return to Middle Mouse and survey the crux of the traverse which is the scramble up the eastern ridge of Mickey Mouse. This scramble was a joy, but you should spread out to avoid loose rock issues. There are varying options to the summit and overall this section should probably be rated difficult. The views of Mount Fryatt, Mount Olympus, Mount Lowell, etc. were stellar, particularly on the summit day I had.

On descent, I found fast soft scree right below the base of Mickey Mouse and traversed left onto snow to avoid a rock band. There are some remnants of an old glacier under this snow, so beware when you make the transition back to rock, as ice does exist underneath. This route allows for a very fast descent back to the meadow ridge that returns to the hut.

Essential Gear

Alpine Ax (for descent), Helmet, Bear Spray, Gaiters (for descent)

Images

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