4th Pitch- 180’- 5.9/ There are no bolts on this pitch. It starts out taking a lot of gear, but then gets a little run out. Best not to overdo your placements too early as it is a long pitch. You need a 3” saved to protect the crux move at the end. Start up the long left leaning crack on good rock below the grade. Move left when it ends into a more challenging, slightly water worn, crack. Climb over a bulge to the crux move directly below the anchor. There used to be a bolt here, but it has been removed. The crack opens up in one spot to take a bomber #3 to protect the challenging “knee in face” balance move. Stand up and clip the station.
Sour Mash, 5.10a, 6 Pitches, Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV, April, 2008