Climber from Seattle about 1 second before peeling off on the Frenchman Coulee test piece, Stem&Ms (12a). I tried this route about 1 year ago and got royally spanked as well.

Notice his right hand. That chalk line is all marginal slopers. The crack in the center is about .3 to .4 inches, barely enough for a fingertip jamb. The rock is smooth. This route is good at giving you a mighty leg cramp!