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Arch Enemy, 5.9 [ Sizes: Orig | Med | Small | Thumb ]
Arch Enemy, 5.9
2nd Pitch- 80’- 5.9/ This is one of the more interesting pitches at Red Rocks. Run up the white hollow (somewhat precarious) flake in the arch. It will be hard to find much friction on the wall during the winter where the sandstone has been scraped by water runoff. There are two bolts on the wall, but the 2nd bolt is eroded and serves little purpose. It is best to focus on finding some pro in the arch at that point. Gravity works against you and makes the crawling up the flake a tad awkward, but eventually you can turn around and face out into a true chimney position on much better rock. Here you will get a few good pieces in, one bomber .75 will be on the wall behind you as you chimney up. Eventually, as the chasm widens, you will flip and face the wall with a great rest stance or two and can place another bomber .5” piece with a double length runner off to your left. Continue through a squeeze section to the top of the arch and walk over to a mid rappel/belay station half way up the 2nd pitch of Solar Slab. (photos)
Arch Enemy, 5.9, 3 Pitches, Upper Solar Slab, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV, February, 2009


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Viewing: 1-6 of 6

rpcpretty dang interesting

Voted 10/10

looking pitch!
Posted Feb 23, 2009 3:40 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: pretty dang interesting

Hasn't voted

must do Radek next time you are on the upper tier....will add the notes shortly, not much on it out there, Josh just learned of it last week...Handren has it in there, but no FA info...cheers
Posted Feb 23, 2009 4:08 pm

rpcRe: pretty dang interesting

Voted 10/10

Dow, did you manage to get on Eagle Dance (think you mentioned it)? We were able to get our credited airfares reserved/used this past weekend (not ideal but oh well...) & made it there for a quick in-and-out: 1am Sat to 4pm Sunday. Climbed DOWT on Saturday (your beta was right on the money) & not much on our 1/2 day Sunday (drizzle on & off after about lunch). cheers!
Posted Feb 23, 2009 4:20 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: pretty dang interesting

Hasn't voted

Unfortuantly Joe and I scheduled it again for Sunday, and again we had to bail...this time we made it to the base of the route, 2.5 hours...although I think I have scouted out the shorter version (5th class approach) for next time...we huddled at the base way back in there for 1.5 hrs, watching those clouds roll over with hats, jackets and gloves on, and did not bail until it started a light rain (10:30 up there) so we could at least say we were "hard men"....looking for a reason to say "uncle" I guess...did get two good days in with Pat B of SP on Fri-Sat. Catch you guys next time. Cheers.
Posted Feb 23, 2009 5:09 pm

F_RhoderickHey Dow

Voted 10/10

Wicked cool picture!
Posted Feb 27, 2009 9:16 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: Hey Dow

Hasn't voted

thanks Fred, fun climb...
Posted Feb 28, 2009 9:38 am

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Image Data

Submitted by Dow Williams
on Feb 23, 2009 3:28 pm

Image ID: 492378
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Image Type(s): Rock Climbing



""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""   --Rene Daumal   

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