Good Intentions, Bad Habits

Overview

This route is an eight pitch totally bolted sport route found on Ashlar's Ridge. The majority of the pitches are in the mid 5.10 range with the crux pitch containing a few sections of thinner 5.11 climbing. While the route is bolted, it is still a large route on an exposed ridge. Helmets are mandatory and climbers should monitor the weather closely as afternoon thunderstorms are common in the spring and summer.

Getting There

This route starts at the top of the first ridge (or knoll) on the right side of Ashlar’s Ridge (see photo) From the top of this ridge, one must make an exposed traverse left along a narrow ridge for about 100 metres to the start of the route. You need to watch closely for the line of bolts leaving the ledge system - there are not obvious.

Route Description

Once you find the beginning of the route, you simple follow the line of bolts to the top. When we climbed the route, we had a hand drawn topo (given to us by the first ascentionists) that graded each of the pitches. They graded the first pitch 5.8, and all the other pitches in the mid 10s except the 7th pitch which was given 5.11. In our opinion, all the pitches were in the mid 10s (including the first pitch) - with the crux moves coming on the 7th pitch. The crux moves felt like hard 5.10 or easy 5.11.

When climbing the route, there are often stations every 25 metres, so you need to choose when to belay. We climbed each pitch as 50 metres - this put the crux pitch at pitch number 7 with the hard moves coming off the belay. If you decide to belay at different stations, then you may climb more than 8 pitches, and the crux pitch may be a different number.

The character of the route was quite variable, with some of the bolts being very close together, while in other pitches, the bolts were further apart.

The route is quite enjoyable and well worth the hike up to the base.

The descent

To walk off simple head south (climber’s right) down the ridge picking the line of least resistance (there is a faint trail in spots) until one gets low enough that you can head back to the north along the bottom of the limestone wall. There is a lot of loose rock and talus on the descent so be prepared to suffer a little.

Essential Gear

A 60 metre rope and a rack of 16 quickdraws.

Images

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