Wagassa is a mixed route with fairly new bolts (2007) on the first two pitches, albeit a tad run out, and pure trad on the last pitch. By far the most critical point of beta regarding Wagassa is that you need double ropes for the rap. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” claims it is a two rap descent. This information is dangerously incorrect. It is a two rap descent with double ropes only. There is no third rap station. A crack on a significant roof towards the top makes up the third pitch. A left leaning crack on the wall below the roof makes up the first pitch. Scramble up right and then left to gain a descent belay ledge with a small tree. The first bolt is about 25’ off the deck.
Wagassa, 5.8, 3 Pitches, West End, Snow Canyon, June, 2007
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