that on the K2 ascent, the didn't find the last camp at 8000m, because the head climbers move away that camp. They didn't want Bonatti to climb the summit with them the next day. There was a huge controversy for decades. A few months ago, one of the two climbers that managed to reach K2 admitted they had moved the tents.
If I remember right, the K2 controversy wasn't really about the tents. The the two that summited claimed they ran out of oxygen on summit day, and Bonatti brought up the tanks, and had an open bivy at 8000m. There was a smear campaign against Bonatti, claiming he somehow used the oxygen himself, even though he didn't have a mask to go with the tanks. It has recently come to light that Lacedelli and Compagnoni lied about running out of oxygen (they did not), and purposefully did not help Bonatti find the high camp, instead letting him spend the night out, and then got the oxygen tanks from him the next morning, in order to insure that he would not try for the summit himself. Pretty incredible really, that climbers would purposefully risk a team member's life and limbs like that, and then smear the person they had wronged, just to give themselves an edge in the summit race and press.
I know well that story. Bonatti was the rising star of the italian alpinism and Lacedelli and Compagnoni wouldn't want to share the fame and the success of a great exploit like that with him. They moved the tents and Bonatti and the sherpa had to bivouac in the death zone. A bad story of envy and jealousy, that could have ended in a tragedy. Also Ardito Desio, the famous explorer that organized the expedition, said that Bonatti was a liar, probably just to avoid any controversy.
They say time is a gentleman. I think by now everyone acknowledges the all important role that Bonatti had in the successful climbing of K2. Without his important contribution, Compagnoni and Lacedelli would have most likely not been able to summit the mountain.
Thankfully, and although very late, the final word about this story has been told.
Congratulations, Walter, great among the greatest.
yes, he is 79yo now, last time we met was about 1 year ago, we live in the same town.
We were a happy rope team, sometimes other members of CAAI came with us, granting more amusement.
In the '80 he was still able to lead short (max 300m) routes on 6° grade
NO books about him!
Mario is really bashful, like his best friends (Silvio Sandri e Vaschino) and many other members of CAAI (Bufera, Vasco, Giorgio, Califfo ecc) he never made "advertising".
I myself don't know the list of the routes he climbed, we never spoke about "done" but only about "to be done".
Anecdote : when some wannabe was trying to join our chats he used to ask :
(Milan dialect) "t'è fà la Valcher ? ... No ? Alura tàs !"
(translation) "did you climb the Walker spur ? ... No ? Keep quiet
It was really amusing seeing their look after this answer :)
we are/were all amateurs :)
on saturday afternoon in Medale (Baiedo, Antimedale), some weekends in Masino or Brenta then, summer holidays !!! ... we use to climb to amuse ! (I was the sucker)
Andino - Sep 25, 2007 2:18 am - Voted 10/10
It is important to mention...that on the K2 ascent, the didn't find the last camp at 8000m, because the head climbers move away that camp. They didn't want Bonatti to climb the summit with them the next day. There was a huge controversy for decades. A few months ago, one of the two climbers that managed to reach K2 admitted they had moved the tents.
Bor - Sep 25, 2007 2:54 am - Hasn't voted
Re: It is important to mention...Thanks for the info!
Cheers!
Augie Medina - Sep 25, 2007 3:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice ArticleMountains of my Life is certainly one of the best books in mountaineering literature and Bonatti is a pioneering legend.
Andino - Sep 26, 2007 1:55 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Nice ArticleI totally agree with you, Augie !
Bor - Sep 26, 2007 2:04 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice ArticleIndeed!
Bor - Sep 26, 2007 2:08 am - Hasn't voted
Re: On your article...Thanks for this! Useful and interesting information!
Cheers!
gramps - Sep 26, 2007 1:31 am - Hasn't voted
K2 fiascoIf I remember right, the K2 controversy wasn't really about the tents. The the two that summited claimed they ran out of oxygen on summit day, and Bonatti brought up the tanks, and had an open bivy at 8000m. There was a smear campaign against Bonatti, claiming he somehow used the oxygen himself, even though he didn't have a mask to go with the tanks. It has recently come to light that Lacedelli and Compagnoni lied about running out of oxygen (they did not), and purposefully did not help Bonatti find the high camp, instead letting him spend the night out, and then got the oxygen tanks from him the next morning, in order to insure that he would not try for the summit himself. Pretty incredible really, that climbers would purposefully risk a team member's life and limbs like that, and then smear the person they had wronged, just to give themselves an edge in the summit race and press.
Bor - Sep 26, 2007 2:11 am - Hasn't voted
Re: K2 fiascoYes, this is really sad. Like sergio said this was very hard and terrible for him spending night there and following feelings for his life.
Cheers!
ganesh70 - Sep 26, 2007 2:15 am - Voted 10/10
k2I know well that story. Bonatti was the rising star of the italian alpinism and Lacedelli and Compagnoni wouldn't want to share the fame and the success of a great exploit like that with him. They moved the tents and Bonatti and the sherpa had to bivouac in the death zone. A bad story of envy and jealousy, that could have ended in a tragedy. Also Ardito Desio, the famous explorer that organized the expedition, said that Bonatti was a liar, probably just to avoid any controversy.
Bor - Sep 26, 2007 2:17 am - Hasn't voted
Re: k2Thanks Fabrizio also for your subscription.
Cheers!
Bor - Sep 27, 2007 2:10 am - Hasn't voted
Re: k2Yes Bonatti said in his book that this expedition was below big pressure of public and they have to be successful.
allari - Jun 30, 2008 7:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: k2They say time is a gentleman. I think by now everyone acknowledges the all important role that Bonatti had in the successful climbing of K2. Without his important contribution, Compagnoni and Lacedelli would have most likely not been able to summit the mountain.
Thankfully, and although very late, the final word about this story has been told.
Congratulations, Walter, great among the greatest.
Gabriele Roth - Sep 26, 2007 1:04 pm - Hasn't voted
you mentionedamong the climbers of the Walker N spur my old friend Mario Bianchi :)
Gabriele Roth - Sep 27, 2007 1:56 am - Hasn't voted
Re: you mentionedyes, he is 79yo now, last time we met was about 1 year ago, we live in the same town.
We were a happy rope team, sometimes other members of CAAI came with us, granting more amusement.
In the '80 he was still able to lead short (max 300m) routes on 6° grade
Bor - Sep 27, 2007 2:12 am - Hasn't voted
Re: you mentionedNice to hear that you know Bianchi. I read in many books also about him.
Gabriele Roth - Sep 27, 2007 2:50 am - Hasn't voted
Re: you mentionedNO books about him!
Mario is really bashful, like his best friends (Silvio Sandri e Vaschino) and many other members of CAAI (Bufera, Vasco, Giorgio, Califfo ecc) he never made "advertising".
I myself don't know the list of the routes he climbed, we never spoke about "done" but only about "to be done".
Anecdote : when some wannabe was trying to join our chats he used to ask :
(Milan dialect) "t'è fà la Valcher ? ... No ? Alura tàs !"
(translation) "did you climb the Walker spur ? ... No ? Keep quiet
It was really amusing seeing their look after this answer :)
Gabriele Roth - Sep 27, 2007 3:06 am - Hasn't voted
Re: you mentionedwe are/were all amateurs :)
on saturday afternoon in Medale (Baiedo, Antimedale), some weekends in Masino or Brenta then, summer holidays !!! ... we use to climb to amuse ! (I was the sucker)
Bor - Sep 27, 2007 3:07 am - Hasn't voted
Re: you mentionedIt will be interesting to hear that also in English :)
Bor - Sep 27, 2007 4:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: you mentionedHe no problem, but these are interesting stories I think.
Cheers!
Gabriele Roth - Sep 27, 2007 4:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: you mentionedtrue stories that can't be found on books :)
I think that books about climbers are not a good media to speak about them ...