1st-2nd Pitches- 50m- 5.9R/ Confusing pitch via the “book of lies”. Sean mentions a 5.9 first pitch and then a 5.8 A1 second pitch (or is he describing the 2nd half of the 1st pitch?). In any regard, I supposedly combined these pitches as he described them with no need for aid. Perhaps he was referring to placing aid on the final run out section which did feel like stout 5.8. Start up the obvious corner just 50m to the right of the north face. Easy climbing gets you to several overhangs, both of which can be surpassed on the left via vertical fun moves over somewhat precarious blocks of limestone. There are plenty of pro opportunities to get you above these two overhangs. Then traverse right and up on edges to access a closed corner to the right. Stay out of the corner utilizing 5.8 type holds to climb run out ground that reaches a small ledge at the top of the corner with a bolted belay/rappel.
West Face, 5.10RX, 8 Pitches, Roche Miette, Jasper National Park, Canadian Rockies, August, 2009
Comments
Post a Comment