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Dow WilliamsWestern Swing  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 2, 2010

Dow Williams

Michelle wanted to see this route. This time I combined the 2nd-3rd pitches to avoid a belay below me when leading the somewhat run out flaring chimney. This meant I had a bit of an uncomfortable belay at the top of the chimney. After we joined Jubilant, we exited out right for two pitches of much better climbing (the water runnel) than the easy crap at the top of Jubilant that most folks seem to be utilizing.
Posted Nov 7, 2010 10:07 am

Dow WilliamsWestern Swing  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 15, 2009

Dow Williams

I like this route as well as Song and a Dance. Larry added a couple of winners here in 2005. Folks need to break away from the herd and try some of these recent additions vs making tracks for the 5.7 Jubilant Song, over and over. I combined the 3rd and 4th pitches and that is a rope stretcher/dragger to be sure. A bit of simul climbing is needed if you set up belay right after the bush on pitch 2, but you can set it just a tad higher to not have to simul climb if you want to combine these two. The crux move of exiting the chimney, moving up the finger crack and then out across the face to the weakness really involved some fun thoughtful climbing. The chimney portion is quite flared vs parallel. Tougher climbing than Epinephrine for example. I suggest you finish on Jubliant vs the dirty crack exit to the bandstand ledge. That means you are doing the last four pitches of Jubliant which can be easily combined into three. First two pitches not great, but the route is worth doing for sure. Chimney, roof, good features. A little run out on the traverse across the face to reach the weakness above on pitch 4. Suppose that is where he used some sliding ball nuts.
Posted Dec 21, 2009 1:26 pm

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