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Whitney-Gilman Ridge Climber's Log

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whatdoIknowW-G  Sucess!

whatdoIknow

Fun climb
Posted Aug 11, 2013 6:46 pm

mtneeringGood Times

mtneering

great friends
Posted Aug 7, 2012 3:33 pm

AlexeyD...and, again!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012

AlexeyD

Finally climbed the 5.8 variation! The hand crack felt a bit strenuous, but fun and very well-protected. Much less appealing was the "intimidating but easier-than-it-looks" section above: though indeed technically easy, I found those hollow-sounding and often difficult to protect flakes extremely unnerving. In fact, was such a relief to finally climb out onto the Pipe Pitch that I got overly excited and nearly took a whipper on the crux pin :) All in all a fun day out, though.
Posted Jul 23, 2012 11:06 am

AlexeyDNice to return to an old classic  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2012

AlexeyD

Took a Friday off to climb the WG with a friend. First time on the route in several years. Finally did the alternate 5.7 first pitch, and found it to be much more fun than the regular start. Almost went for the 5.8 variation on pitch 3, but decided against it after realizing that my partner had used my #1 Camalot, which is necessary to protect the crux crack, for the pitch 2 belay. Still found some loose rock on the pitch below the pipe pitch. Perfect day with clear skies, low humidity and no wind - the only drawback were the black flies which, interestingly, only seemed to get worse the higher we climbed! All in all a great day, next time will come back with doubles in #1s and do the 5.8 variation!
Posted Jun 20, 2012 2:56 pm

secanderGood Stuff  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2011

secander

Took the normal route and I led all the pitches. Pipe pitch was a little heady. Recent rockfall made some moves tenuous due to loose rocks.
Posted Jul 12, 2011 10:53 am

desainmeWGR  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 1982

desainme

Enjoyable climb
Posted Sep 30, 2010 5:14 am

Seth MaciejowskiLinky with the Black Dike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 21, 2009

Seth Maciejowski

Fun link with the Dike. 5.8 crack filled with ice and 30 lb pack on the back made it quite hard!
Posted Sep 2, 2009 11:43 pm

SteveMarrWhitney-GIlman
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2006

SteveMarr

Fantastic climb - long, moderate, great exposure and position along the entire route. The approach is fun, and the descent was brutal. Must do for New England.
Posted Feb 17, 2009 1:59 am

chel3178Quite an experience...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 20, 2008

chel3178

I HATED the approach over the talus field. I think I just psyched myself out and plan to do better next time. Though I've read on other sites that there are times when boulders come loose. So, there is good need to worry but it's just part of getting there, I guess. The climb itself was awesome. I needed a little lift on that 3rd pitch (I seconded), but all in all did well. I added a picture of myself at that pitch with the Black Dike looming behind me. I LOVED that pitch, I could see a little waterfall that was starting to freeze and hear the ice crashing down on the ground. Also, I was climbing with Chris who posted below this and as he said Denny was our leader. He did great!
Posted Oct 30, 2008 1:25 pm

ParenteauA lot of fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 20, 2008

Parenteau

Beautiful weather and no rockfall made for an awesome time. My friend Denny lead the route and did awesome on the tricky 5.9 variation at the finish. I can't wait to go back and lead it myself.
Posted Oct 22, 2008 9:41 pm

IsaiahNew England 5.7  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007

Isaiah

Well, It was a great day but the belay station at the two square foot ledge with two hundred feet of exposure toward the main wall and like 400 toward the highway was a lot of fun for half an hour!If you stay on route it is a solid 5.7 but every corner holds fixed gear leading astray to harder variations.
Posted Aug 18, 2007 9:46 pm

AlexeyDcruising the WG
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2007

AlexeyD

Decided to make a quick run up the WG after climbing the very burly Duet Direct (hard 5.10). Discovered that it can be done in three full 60-meter pitches if you follow the 5.8 variation. Waited for a total of at least 40 minutes at various ledges for parties ahead of us to get moving, but still made it in around 3 hours.
Posted Jul 23, 2007 2:51 am

eric bwhitney gilman ridge  Sucess!

eric b

first attempt we ran out of time due to climber traffic and had an epic rappel when the rope got snagged. The second attempt was a charm. Route finding can be difficult and we did the 5.9 variation near the top. Of course we didn't realize it until i was commited to the move and freaked, but made it. We walked off and the trail down is steep and loaded with loose material-scarier than the climb itself!!
Posted Oct 15, 2006 11:56 pm

AlexeyDRe: whitney gilman ridge

AlexeyD

See, when I wrote the description for this a couple years ago, I was following the last pitch so I didn't remember the route too carefully; as a result, my original description to go right at the bulge was a bit off. Now that I led it, I know you're actually supposed to go quite a bit left; then it really is 5.7. I nearly did the same thing you did, but my belayer, who had done it many times before, talked me out of it.

Posted Jul 23, 2007 3:08 am

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