it is to see this point of view expressed here. My friends and I started climbing just when the "clean" era began in the early 70s and we took great pains (and often risks) to practice "no trace" climbing with the use of mainly nuts and stoppers. With few exceptions, all of our routes were done bottom up on a lead. If we top-roped, rested on gear, or used it for foward progress it was considered cheating and the route would always carry the stigma of this kind of effort. Style and ethics were equally as important as the overall difficulty with no exceptions. We by-passed many a nice looking route just because there was no practical way to protect them without using bolts or fixed pro. We also felt that in the future more sklilled climbers with better gear might come along and figure out the problems that we left untouched. That did happen but certainly not in the way that we expected. Along with sport climbing came a whole new generation with a different values and that was anything goes. Bolts, chain anchors, pitch-by-pitch topos, portable drills, you name it, it's all fair game now. At first I hated this change and was ready to go start chopping bolts at our local crags but soon realized that "this is just how things are now and no one else gives a rip. You're just an old man and people would trundle on my head if I tried to erase the garbage they leave behind."
Many thanks also to you for your contribute.
I agree with you; shortening the time of history by increasing more and more technical means cannot be approved: it’s a robbery of our future.
All the best!
alberto
I started climbing a few years ago, and because of where i lived(Yellowstone), trad climbing routes were all i had avaliable. I recently moved to Bozeman Montana for college, and was struck by the realization that most people of my generation climb either bolted "sport" routes or at indoor gyms. While i do enjoy this type of climbing from time to time, i am disappointed that trad climbing has fallen out of favor. Although bolts/chains allow for one to climb harder routes more safely(or at least more confidently), trad climbing is much more fulfilling in my opinion. I really enjoyed your excellent article!
Yes, that is the situation!
Our efforts are oriented in raise awareness about trad climb, its ethical value and personal satisfaction, without demonizing sport climb: either can co-live with respect of their different rules.
Thanks for your comment!
cheers.
alberto
Fortunately, as I remembered, also in Europe, in some places, such as in the Dolomites, Orco and Mello, trad climb is nowadays a well established tradition…
Thanks for your comment.
ciao
alberto
When I was first getting into mountaineering I had read too many older books and didn't understand what climbing had become in the past 20 or 30 years. The idea of a first ascent being preceded by a long series of rappels for cleaning and bolt drilling seemed counter-intuitive at best, and more often simply absurd. Especially as a new-comer to technical climbing, it's great to see these ideals being revived and updated.
Hi Jacob,
really these ideals are the "core" of alpinism, i think...
Otherwise we can talk about sport, but not about alpinism!
Thanks for your kind comment.
cheers.
alberto
Hi Alberto, wonderful article and awesome photos, thank you.
Here in California, things are similar to Italy. Bolts proliferate, rock is being defaced with "technology" and bold new lines are pioneered less and less. The technical difficulty is increasing but boldness is not. We all are conditioned to climb harder, but risk less. I too am an "old" man and what I might say does not "cut it" these days, but I miss the days when "running it out" was the norm. Again, thanks for the great article. Alois.
I was a bit surprised reading what you wrote: I thought in US bold climb was well established. May be there are different ways of climbing according to different areas/countries of US?
Another question I should put: bolts proliferate only in new routes or attempt old bold routes too?
Thank you for your visit and your answer, if you like.
alberto
The first question you pose, IMO, You'll find less and less of bold, protection difficult, complicated new ascents in the last 20 years everywhere in the US, (this is just a general statement). Bolts (again in general) proliferate mostly new routes as people,trained in gyms, find difficult but extremely hard to protect lines on established formations and proceed to bolt it, often by rappelling and pre-placing bolts from the top down. The element of adventure has been totally lost and suplanted by technical difficulty of each move, changing the "game". People respect local traditions less and alpine terrain is not immune to excessive bolting either. There are bright exceptions, of course, some bold free climbing is being done (Yosemite, Tuolumne for ex.), but if you look at the US scene overall, we are collectively changing the game for ever (right or wrong).
The situation is similar here in Europe, with some important exceptions: the Dolomites area, Orco Valley and UK climbing areas. But i think a return towards trad climbing is still possible.
Many thanks for your interesting contribution!
alberto
Thanks for your interest.
I agree with you, but the problem is that here there is not a “climbing community” and often the first ascensionists are not still in life (many routes where established many years ago), so there is problem even for the first ascensionist permission …
cheers
alberto
rpc - Oct 21, 2012 10:52 pm - Voted 10/10
wonderful!thank you for posting up the amazing photos & the TR. Great stuff!!
Alberto Rampini - Oct 22, 2012 4:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: wonderful!Many thanks,
you really have incredible action photos, i had a a look at your gallery...breathtaking!
cheers
alberto
rpc - Oct 23, 2012 4:04 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: wonderful!thank you for the nice words Alberto. Cheers.
reboyles - Oct 22, 2012 11:09 am - Voted 10/10
How Refreshingit is to see this point of view expressed here. My friends and I started climbing just when the "clean" era began in the early 70s and we took great pains (and often risks) to practice "no trace" climbing with the use of mainly nuts and stoppers. With few exceptions, all of our routes were done bottom up on a lead. If we top-roped, rested on gear, or used it for foward progress it was considered cheating and the route would always carry the stigma of this kind of effort. Style and ethics were equally as important as the overall difficulty with no exceptions. We by-passed many a nice looking route just because there was no practical way to protect them without using bolts or fixed pro. We also felt that in the future more sklilled climbers with better gear might come along and figure out the problems that we left untouched. That did happen but certainly not in the way that we expected. Along with sport climbing came a whole new generation with a different values and that was anything goes. Bolts, chain anchors, pitch-by-pitch topos, portable drills, you name it, it's all fair game now. At first I hated this change and was ready to go start chopping bolts at our local crags but soon realized that "this is just how things are now and no one else gives a rip. You're just an old man and people would trundle on my head if I tried to erase the garbage they leave behind."
Thank you!
Bob
Alberto Rampini - Oct 23, 2012 12:54 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: How RefreshingMany thanks also to you for your contribute.
I agree with you; shortening the time of history by increasing more and more technical means cannot be approved: it’s a robbery of our future.
All the best!
alberto
PanamaRed - Oct 22, 2012 5:22 pm - Voted 10/10
Great article!I started climbing a few years ago, and because of where i lived(Yellowstone), trad climbing routes were all i had avaliable. I recently moved to Bozeman Montana for college, and was struck by the realization that most people of my generation climb either bolted "sport" routes or at indoor gyms. While i do enjoy this type of climbing from time to time, i am disappointed that trad climbing has fallen out of favor. Although bolts/chains allow for one to climb harder routes more safely(or at least more confidently), trad climbing is much more fulfilling in my opinion. I really enjoyed your excellent article!
Alberto Rampini - Oct 23, 2012 1:34 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great article!Yes, that is the situation!
Our efforts are oriented in raise awareness about trad climb, its ethical value and personal satisfaction, without demonizing sport climb: either can co-live with respect of their different rules.
Thanks for your comment!
cheers.
alberto
mvs - Oct 22, 2012 6:48 pm - Voted 10/10
awesomeEuropean climbers rediscover their roots, well done, this is great news.
Alberto Rampini - Oct 23, 2012 2:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: awesomeFortunately, as I remembered, also in Europe, in some places, such as in the Dolomites, Orco and Mello, trad climb is nowadays a well established tradition…
Thanks for your comment.
ciao
alberto
jacobsmith - Oct 22, 2012 11:02 pm - Voted 10/10
Huge encouragementWhen I was first getting into mountaineering I had read too many older books and didn't understand what climbing had become in the past 20 or 30 years. The idea of a first ascent being preceded by a long series of rappels for cleaning and bolt drilling seemed counter-intuitive at best, and more often simply absurd. Especially as a new-comer to technical climbing, it's great to see these ideals being revived and updated.
Alberto Rampini - Oct 23, 2012 2:37 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Huge encouragementHi Jacob,
really these ideals are the "core" of alpinism, i think...
Otherwise we can talk about sport, but not about alpinism!
Thanks for your kind comment.
cheers.
alberto
Sarah Simon - Oct 24, 2012 10:13 pm - Voted 10/10
Great writing, awesome photosI loved all of it, Alberto, well done!
Che un ottimo lavoro!
Sarah
Alberto Rampini - Oct 25, 2012 3:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great writing, awesome photosKind words, Sarah. Happy you like that.
This valley is a little Yosemite, surrounded by high mountains as Gran Paradiso! Nice!
ciao
alberto
asmrz - Oct 25, 2012 6:57 pm - Voted 10/10
The challenge is still thereHi Alberto, wonderful article and awesome photos, thank you.
Here in California, things are similar to Italy. Bolts proliferate, rock is being defaced with "technology" and bold new lines are pioneered less and less. The technical difficulty is increasing but boldness is not. We all are conditioned to climb harder, but risk less. I too am an "old" man and what I might say does not "cut it" these days, but I miss the days when "running it out" was the norm. Again, thanks for the great article. Alois.
Alberto Rampini - Oct 26, 2012 8:44 am - Hasn't voted
Re: The challenge is still thereI was a bit surprised reading what you wrote: I thought in US bold climb was well established. May be there are different ways of climbing according to different areas/countries of US?
Another question I should put: bolts proliferate only in new routes or attempt old bold routes too?
Thank you for your visit and your answer, if you like.
alberto
asmrz - Oct 26, 2012 11:14 am - Voted 10/10
Re: The challenge is still thereThe first question you pose, IMO, You'll find less and less of bold, protection difficult, complicated new ascents in the last 20 years everywhere in the US, (this is just a general statement). Bolts (again in general) proliferate mostly new routes as people,trained in gyms, find difficult but extremely hard to protect lines on established formations and proceed to bolt it, often by rappelling and pre-placing bolts from the top down. The element of adventure has been totally lost and suplanted by technical difficulty of each move, changing the "game". People respect local traditions less and alpine terrain is not immune to excessive bolting either. There are bright exceptions, of course, some bold free climbing is being done (Yosemite, Tuolumne for ex.), but if you look at the US scene overall, we are collectively changing the game for ever (right or wrong).
Alberto Rampini - Oct 26, 2012 3:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The challenge is still thereThe situation is similar here in Europe, with some important exceptions: the Dolomites area, Orco Valley and UK climbing areas. But i think a return towards trad climbing is still possible.
Many thanks for your interesting contribution!
alberto
Alberto Rampini - Nov 19, 2012 1:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The challenge is still thereThanks for your interest.
I agree with you, but the problem is that here there is not a “climbing community” and often the first ascensionists are not still in life (many routes where established many years ago), so there is problem even for the first ascensionist permission …
cheers
alberto