There isn't much info avail on this route aside from Andy's book and this post. It is quite stellar but shoudl not be underestimated. 5.9 (very old school - old timers probably did it in moutnaineering boots while smoking cigarettes!!!) in Andy Genereux's book - the crux when you have to mantle definitely felt more than 10a for my son who climbs 5.12 as he heel hooked his way onto it. Great rock quality on all pitches and fairly sustained at the grade. Highly recommended - but it clearly is a notch above Bonanza so keep that in mind.
For the Bonanza descent gully, we went with the suggestion of a 70m rope this time instead of 2x60m. It works - but you need a directional piece on the way down to make it (trend right) and it's a bit of a rope stretcher. There is a an intermediate rap station if you want to keep your pucker factor down to a reasonable level. :-)
Andino - Jul 30, 2008 9:30 am - Voted 10/10
Another...rich page of yours !
Beau travail ;o)
Dow Williams - Jul 30, 2008 12:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Another...thanks mate, I love that profile pic of yours.
Andino - Jul 31, 2008 4:09 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Another...I haven't been productive on SP over the last few months, but I can see you are still very active on writing and submitting pictures ! Impressive !!
bdaneau - Jun 30, 2023 7:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Stellar routeThere isn't much info avail on this route aside from Andy's book and this post. It is quite stellar but shoudl not be underestimated. 5.9 (very old school - old timers probably did it in moutnaineering boots while smoking cigarettes!!!) in Andy Genereux's book - the crux when you have to mantle definitely felt more than 10a for my son who climbs 5.12 as he heel hooked his way onto it. Great rock quality on all pitches and fairly sustained at the grade. Highly recommended - but it clearly is a notch above Bonanza so keep that in mind.
For the Bonanza descent gully, we went with the suggestion of a 70m rope this time instead of 2x60m. It works - but you need a directional piece on the way down to make it (trend right) and it's a bit of a rope stretcher. There is a an intermediate rap station if you want to keep your pucker factor down to a reasonable level. :-)