Zion Free Rock Climbs : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Even though Zion is known for its spectacular big wall climbs, the park also offers many excellent free crack climbs. Most of the climbs are at the base of larger cliffs on well cemented red Navajo sandstone. The climbs are generally solid and clean, however ledges and chimneys usually contain loose blocks. If the climb is not very popular the sandstone can be quite sandy. Also after a rainstorm the sandstone loses half of its strength and gets covered with sand. It is best to allow 24 hours for it to dry out. The climate in Zion Canyon is extreme and the best climbing temperatures can be found during spring and fall. But by following the sun or shade one could climb here year around.

Getting There

To access climbs inside Zion Canyon you will need to use the free shuttle system. The park service operates the shuttles from April until end of October. You can drive your car in the canyon outside this time period.

For climbs around Mt Carmel Tunnel and Pine Creek Canyon you can drive your car and park on the side of Hwy 9 (Mount Carmel Highway) at the appropriate turns.

Most climbs listed here have short approaches from the road. Please stay on established trails, care for the fragile desert environment and obey the closures whether due to raptor nesting or historical importance.

The Tunnel Crags

The Headache (5.10)

Ashtar Tower

Ashtar Tower
Ashtar Command (5.9)
Feeling Minnesota (5.8)

Practice Cliffs

Casual Sex (5.7)
Unnamed (5.10)

Cerberus

Cynthia's Handjob (5.10)
Cave Route (5.7)
Fathedral (5.10+)
Squeeze Play (5.10)
Fails of Power (5.10)
Cherry Crack (5.9)

Temple of Sinawava

Tourist Crack (5.9)
Right Toilet Crack (5.9)

Great White Throne Base

One for the Road (5.10-)

Climbing Guides Overview

(1) Zion Rock by Alex McAfee (ISBN 1-892540-20-7). Gives brief description and topos without pictures. Most information is left out intentionally to keep the climbs adventurous.

(2) Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart M. Green (ISBN 1-56044-401-0). Contains more pictures and topos to locate the routes. For gear don't rely entirely what is written here, go and look at the route for a better estimate.

(3) Selected Climbs in the Desert Southwest Colorado & Utah by Cameron M. Burns (ISBN 0-89886-657-X). Brief description of few routes with pictures.

The outfitter Narrows (name ?)(biking, hiking, climbing, canyoneering) in the town of Springdale, UT has several binders of topos of many routes inside and outside the park. If you ask them they will make copies for you and give you more beta about the routes. They mentioned that a new extensive guide book is supposed to come out in 2007.

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