TM ascent by Jérôme Chazelas & Thomas Quillet (France) between 12/06 and 17/07.
Alpine style, without oxygen nor fixed ropes use. Ascent by the czech route 1967.
Also climbed Dir Gol Zom (6800m) and Ghul Laszt Zom (6600m, stop at 6300m) for acclimatization.
First ascent since 2001.
The itinerary followed above C4 might be new. No signs of previous ascent of this route variation. We follwed the snow slopes straight into the middle of the face into a mixed section (30m), then back to the left on a snowpatch, and a final short mixed section to the ridge leading to the summit.
No safety issues. Chitralis very welcoming.
Organization & Logistics prepared with the ATP agency (Islamabad), serious and competent. Also help from the Terichmir travel agency (Chitral).
Alone in the whole range for the first 3 weeks. A party of Russians arrived to the BC while we were descending.
Almost no gear on the route, old rotten fixed ropes and few pitons between C3 and C4.
Great mountain, great place, great climb!
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