5. Ryjiy Ugol

Page Type
Ukraine, Europe
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Most of a day
5b Russian grade (TD+)

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
5. Ryjiy Ugol
Created On: Dec 17, 2005
Last Edited On: Dec 17, 2005


From the settlment Foros take a road up to the highway Sevastopol - Yalta, cross it and continue walking up by the road to the pass Baidarskie Vorota. Turn to the right from the main road when you will be near the face and climb by the easy rocks to the beginning of the route.

Route Description

This route is number 5 on the photo.
The route begins in 50-60m to the right from the buttress. There is narrow crack on the slab below the red rocks of the chimney - it is the guiding poing of the place. To the right from the crack climb up to the little tree (15m, 75deg., III), then move to the right to the vertical crack and along it to the small shelf (20m, 85deg, VAI) - R1. Then climb 20m to the cornice pass it by the left side (20m, VAII, small nuts), then climb by easier rocks. Climb 15 m (III) to the point R2. From the point R2 climb up along the slightly overhanging wall (10m, VAII), then move along the chimney to the big juniper-tree (25m, 80deg., V) - R3. Then climb up along the chimney past two trees to the small shelf (45m, 90deg, IV+) - R4. This place is not comfortable for belaying. It is possible to pass this place from the right. In 10m up from this point there is a good wide shelf. From this shelf, climb up along the crack (30m, 80deg., V) - R5. Climb along the slab and chimney (40m, 90deg., V) to the next shelf - R6. From the point R6 move to the left along the slab, pass the cornice, then climb 25m up and a bit to the right to the next cornice and pass it along the crack to the third overhanging (90deg., V) - R7. The chimney, covered by ivy will be to the right from you. From the point R7you can use two variants of almost equal complexity - to the right passing the small niche and then to the left to the Summit. Other variant is climb the top by the left side of the wall. The route is bolted. Descent by the visible trek along the summit plateau in the direction of the church.

Essential Gear

Rock shoes, helmet, one 50m rope, set of quickdraws (15), set of nuts (medium size), 4-5 friends

Miscellaneous Info

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