A nice climb in perfect conditions!
ski ascent, one day from chamonix via grand montets ski area. fine tour, totally doable on a long spring day. steep headwall, can be descended with difficulty clear from summit on skis. non technical, one tool, crampons if not skiing.
From our bivac on the Argentiere glacier it was difficult finding a route though the enoooooooooormus amount of crevasses on the glacier. After a few jumps where C.Lewis would have been proud off, it was no probleme climbing 250 hm 40' firn to the summit.
Very nice route, but there are much better routes on this mountain (Messnerroute )
My highest Alp to date! Spent a splendid night in a 5 star bivvy under a boulder on the moraines before setting out to climb the mountain at a very unsociable 1am. Navigation difficulties resulted in us crossing the worst crevasses ive ever seen and even resulted in us having to climb down into a particulaly large one, cross a snow bridge that promptly collapsed on me, and then ascend the opposite wall with just one axe...terrific fun!
The rest of the climb was less eventfull but there was a great view from the summit all the way across to the Matterhorn in Switzerland. We had the summit to ourselves (rare in the Alps) as we were the first ones up and were happy to see 50 climbers moving up the glacier in a procession all huffing and puffing to the top. Our hard work was done and we bounded down the mountain in good spirits after an easy but rewarding climb.
But what about that slog up to the Grand Monets...its just hell isnt it?
How silly that we went along the foot of the Northface of the Aiguille Verte at avalanche grade 4!! .... So instead of climbing the Couloir Couturier and going down through the Whymper Couloir (planned partly with ski), we looked at Aiguille d'Argentière - and finally decided to go to the end of the glacier d'Argentiere and to try our luck overthere ....
The third day, I finally gave it up to jump about around in the fog and snowstorm although Ulli and Günter still continued trying to become killed by avalanches, icefall and the coldness ;o). So I went down alone by ski to Argentière - and got nearly killed as well by almost having fallen in a big crevasse which I did not saw because of the fog :o( .... Having reached Argentière finally, I recognized that the battery of my handy was totally empty (because of the extreme coldness) .... so I would probably not have gotten any help if I had fallen into that crevasse :o(, although I still had a very loud pea-whistle with me... :o).
Another memorable day in the mountains. We did it in a day from the Gand Montet.