Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 45.96358°N / 7.02236°E
Additional Information Elevation: 12801 ft / 3902 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Aiguille d'Argentière seen from Grands Montets (March 2001) - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu

In memory of Rahel Maria Liu, the former maintainer of this page. Rahel died on the Innominata Spur to Mont Blanc in a snowstorm on August 24th, 2004.

SunriseGlacier du MilieuAdenostylesSunsetGlacier du Milieu

Aiguille d'Argentière - a peak in the Mont Blanc Massif
    The Aiguille d'Argentière (3902 m) is situated in the Mont Blanc Massif, in the North of some major peaks as the Mont Blanc and Les Droites and south-east of Aiguille du Chardonnet. It is a very beautiful and interesting mountain concerning its shape and with regard to the ascents. According to Eberlein, there exist more than 50 ascents (although he does not name all). Most famous are the Normal Route and the North Face ascents. But also the SW Ridge and the many ridge towers provide many interesting climbing routes. There only more in the Aiguilles of Chamonix.
* Aiguille d'Argentière - Photo by andrea.it
Aiguille d'Argentière
Historical notes
    First ascent: E. Whymper and A. Reilly with M. Croz, M. Payot and H. Charlet on the 15th of July 1864.

Routes Overview

* Panoramic View of Aiguille d'Argentière - Glacier du Milieu - Glacier d'Argentière - Photo by Rahel Maria Liu
* ROUTES - Photos by andrea.it - gabriele/Jeroen Vels - El Tigre Valderrama - schadik
Ski route W SideNorth Face N SideY Couloir S SideESE & NE Ridge E Side
SW Flank - Glacier du Milieu:
                    steepest passage 50°, PD+, 400 hm (summit face), altogether 1200 hm, 4-5 h from Ref. d'Argentière. (Eberlein, p. 411) * Photos by Hiltrud Liu - andrea.it

                    RouteStartUpperGLNarrowPSummitView

W Flank and NW Ridge - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière:
                    mixed, steepest ice passage 45°, PD, 5 h (Eberlein, p. 411f.) * Photos by Hiltrud Liu - om - Tony Simkins - andrea.it - Modi

                    W FlankW SideNW RNW SideView

N Face - Ascent from the foot:
                    50° in the average, D, 600 hm (face), 3-6 h from the foot (Eberlein, 412) * Photos by Jeroen Vels/gabriele - schadik - gabriele - Jeroen Vels

                    ViewSunriseNorth WallClimbAscentSummit

NE Face - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière:
                    average of steepness: 49°, steepest passage 55°, IV, mostly III, D, 700 hm (face), 4-6 h from the foot (Eberlein, 414) * Photos by noah - Huberschwiller -schadik - om

                    NE RidgeViewSaleina GlE SideNE Face

ESE Ridge - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière:
                    III, mostly easier, ice till 50°, AD, 1000 lm, 350 hm, 5,5 h (Eberlein, p. 415) * Photos by Koen - andrea.it - schadik - pablo

                    CrevassesViewSummitBarbet FSaleinaGlViewDescent

Y Couloir (S Couloir) - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière:
                    pure firn, 45° at 450 m, AD, 550 hm, 4,5 h (Eberlein, p. 416) * Photos by El Tigre Valderrama - Stuart Buchanan

                    StartClimbSummitBiviingSummit

Jardin Ridge - Ascent from Ref. d'Argentière:
                    IV+, mostly IV and III, D, 900 hm, 1500 lm, 9 h (Eberlein, 416) * Photos by Hiltrud Liu - rasto krizan - ferro - Simnel - Nigel Braggins

                    JardinRArgGlW SideArgGlView

Ski Route - Glacier du Milieu - Ascent from the Cable Car Station Grands Montets:
                    * Photos by andrea.it

                    Milieu GlRouteClimbCouloirSummitView

* Climber's Logs

Getting There

* Adenostyles (Grauer Alpendost) and Cicerbita (Blue Thistle) - on the way to the Glacier d'Argentière (Photo by Hiltrud Liu)
Adenostyles and Cicerbita
To the Aiguille d'Argentière
    You come from the Ref. d'Argentière.
To the Ref. d'Argentière
    In order to reach the hut, you have 3 possibilities: From Croix de Lognan (1970 m) in 3 - 3,5 h, to Croix de Lognan with cable car from Argentière: From Croix de Lognan, you go on foot up over the morainecrest till about 2250m. Than you continue horizontally to the glacier, which you follow on the orographically left side. After about 1 km, the glacier becomes steeper and more torn. You climb onto the morain of the Rognons, first over a slippery shelf, than via a marked way which you follow until you reach the upper end of the ice break. You climb the glacier in SE direction and reach over the moraine the hut. On foot from Argentière in 5 h: From the ground station of the cable car, you follow the wide aisle of the ski-run. You leave it at the height of about 1750m and reach the way of the middle station of the cable car (2 h). Now, you need 3 h to the hut. From Aiguille des Grands Montets (summit station of the cable car from Argentière; last train up: 4:45 p.m.) in 2 h: From the summit station, you go via a stairway to the Col des Grandes Montets. You traverse a bergschrund (maybe with the help of a rope) and go up the steep hang to the Glacier Rognons. You go in ENE direction on the western side along P. 3000 to P. 2754m. You go down southeastern to the glacier d'Argentière, which you reach above the icebreak. From here in 2 h to the hut. You reach Argentière by train (from Martigny/CH or Geneva or Annecy - TGV to St. Gervais), bus (from Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin) or car from Geneva or Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets.
You reach the Chamonix Valley by train:
    From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine. From Geneva (airport) via Anncey (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.
You reach the Chamonix Valley by bus:
    From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin
* Ascent 1860 - Mer de Glace - Crevasse 1890 (Photos from om)
Ascent 1860
Mer de Glace
Crevasse 1890
You reach the Chamonix Valley by car:
    From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205. From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.
You reach the Val Ferret (Italy) by bus or car:
    From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW. From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.

Mountainhut

* Views of Aiguille d'Argentière - Photos by barrys, Jurgen Mesman, om, schadik
Summit ViewSW Flank N SideW SideE Face
Refuge d'Argentière (2271 m)
Refuge d'Argentière is a modern big hut with a view directly to the northfaces on the opposite side: from Aiguille Verte to Mont Dolent. It is situated near the corner where the Glacier d'Argentière and the Glacier des Améthystes come together.
You reach the Refuge d'Argentière:
    from Croix de Lognan (1970 m) in 3 - 3,5 h, to Croix de Lognan with cable car from Argentière on foot from Argentière in 5 h from Aiguille des Grands Montets (Summit Station of the cable car from Argentière) in 2 h

Infos

* Panoramic View of Aiguille d'Argentière - Glacier d'Argentière - Photo by Hiltrud Liu
WEATHER INFOS GENERAL INFOS TRAIN CHAMONIX VALLEY
    Phone: 0033/450 53 1298 - 0033/8 36 35 35 35 0033/450530702 (Train station Chamonix) Phone of the Montenvers-train: ++33(0)450/531254 Ticket shop
BUS CHAMONIX VALLEY
    Phone: 0033/450 53 0555 - 0033/450 53 0115
CABLE CARS CAMPINGPLACE

Map&Books

* Sunrise ... With this beautiful panorama of all the major mountains of the Mont Blanc Group - Photo by Jurgen Mesman
Mont Blanc - Aiguille Verte - Aiguille d'Argentiére
Institut Géographique National
    1:25000 no. 3630 OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
Instituto Geografico Centrale * Ski route Glacier de Milieu Map - Photo from andrea.it
Route mapMilieu Map
* Google Earth Mont Blanc Area - Photo from Antonio Giani
Mont Blanc Area
BOOKS
    Hartmut Eberlein, Mont-Blanc-Gruppe. Gebietsführer für Bergsteiger und Kletterer, 2000 or 2012. Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, The High Mountains of the Alps. Gaston Rébuffat: The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 Finest Routes. London 1996. ISBN 1-898573-03-4. Erich Vanis, Im steilen Eis. 80 Eiswände in den Alpen. Munich et al. 1980. ISBN 3-405-12158-2. Damilano/Perroux, Neige, Glace Et Mixte: Mont Blanc. Editions Ice 1996. ISBN 2950986803. UKClimbing.com Laroche/Lelong: Die Gipfel des Montblanc. Munich 1999. ISBN 3-405-15693-9. Helmut Dumler/Willi P. Burkhardt, Viertausender der Alpen. 11th ed. Munich 1998. ISBN 3-7633-7427-2. Lindsay Griffin, Mont Blanc Massif, Vol. 2 - Published Alpine Club (2002) - ISBN 0-900523-58-1. Rother Skitourenführer - Hartmut Eberlein, Mont Blanc, 2009 (S. 100, 104, 106)

Link MountainArea

* Argentière (JA Linck, 1830) - Photo from om
Bureau des Guides - France Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur - Italy * Glacier d'Argentière - Cicerbita Alpina - Glacier d'Argentière - Glacier de Saleina - Photos by Modi, Hiltrud Liu - Andy Kennedy and noah
Glacier d'ArgentièreView from Grands MontetsCicerbitaCrossing the GlacierGlacier de Saleina

Google Map

* Google Map Mont Blanc Area * Google Map - Photo from markhallam


Children

Children

Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.