Aiguille des Glaciers (3.817m) from the Seigne Pass

Aiguille des Glaciers (3.817m) from the Seigne Pass

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.77722°N / 6.80234°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Additional Information Difficulty: AD-
Sign the Climber's Log

Getting There

From Courmayeur (Italy)

By car through the Val Veny mountain road until the car park at La Visaille / Plan Lognan or (500m below) at Plan Veny (near the picnic area). Private access to this road is regulated from 1 to 20 Aug. - By the bus service – one trip each 40 minutes. In Courmayeur the bus can be taken from the Bus Station (near the tunnel highway entrance). From Bourg St. Maurice (France) By car, taking the direction to Bonneval-Les Chapieux-Beaufort, you reach after 20 km Les Chapieux car park, shops, one little hotel). From here, a non metalled road (closed in winter!) traverse the lonely (and sparlesly populated) Valle Des Glaciers, and reaches in 7 km Les Mottets (very good hotel-refuge).
Moving the cursor one can see the overall scene

Route Description

From the barrier of the carriage of the Valley Veny to the Elisabetta Refuge (2.197m; 1h'15); for the comfortable path that goes to the Tsa of the Lex Blanche (2.280m), on the plan of the "Tour De Mont Blanc" to the Seigne Pass (2.514m; 1h'00). To follow verse north the crest of boundary exceeding easily in succession "La Montagnes des Glaciers (2.744m) and the Quotes 3.013m3.210m and 3.331m; this finishes can be avoided more to west on a small glacier (30°/35°) what it conducts from final ridge on the Petite Aiguille des Glaciers (3.471m; 3h'30/4h'00 from the Refuge). To surpass it on steep rocks, but not difficult; to come down for the crest N-NW to a small hill. From this to up again the pyramid truncates for South crest with direction N-NW to the Quota 3.624m, then N-NW to the peak. Overcome the first prominence without difficulty to continue since for the pseudo-rectilinear crest against the pyramid sommitale actually holding on the right to a fork (delicate); the terminal wall is steep of non difficult rocks (II°/II°+), but delicate for the instability (great rocks to be climbed with attention). Before going out on the Southern Antecima is found inserted in the stone in vertical the helix of a fallen airplane during the II° War; from this to the peak with possibility of frames (8h'00 from the car).
Descent: Not simple, it asks for prudence. To go down since for the crest North near the next to last channel toward North, then to turn to West for a little couloir (N-NW Wall) supporting to the rocks of a rib (very delicate with verglass); from the Glacier des Glaciers with a long beam first to South, then sout-heast i am returned to the Seigne Pass.
Dalla barriera della carrozzabile della Val Veny al Rifugio Elisabetta (2.197 m; 1h'15); per il comodo sentiero che passa alla Tsa della Lex Blanche (2.280 m), sul tracciato del "Tour de Mont Blanc", al Colle della Seigne (2.514 m; 1h'00). Seguire verso nord la cresta di confine oltrepassando facilmente in successione La Montagnes des Glaciers (2.744 m) e le Quote 3.013 m3.210 m e 3.331 m; questa ultima può essere evitata più ad ovest su un piccolo ghiacciaio (30°/35°) che porta alla crestina SE finale delle Petite Aiguille des Glaciers (3.471 m; 3h'30/4h'00 dal Rifugio). Superarla su rocce ripide, ma non difficili; scendere per la cresta N-NW a un piccolo colle. Da questo risalire la piramide tronca per la sua cresta Sud con direzione N-NW sino alla Quota 3.624 m, poi N-NE sino alla vetta. Superato il primo risalto, senza difficoltà, continuare per la cresta pseudo-rettilinea sin contro la piramide sommitale tenendosi sulla destra sino ad una forcella (delicato); la parete terminale è ripida di rocce non difficili (II°/II°+), ma delicate per l'instabilità (grandi massi da arrampicare con attenzione). Prima di uscire sull'Anticima Sud, si trova incastrata nella roccia in verticale l'elica di un aereo schiantatosi durante la II° Guerra Mondiale; da questa alla vetta con possibilità di cornici (8h'00 dall'auto).
Discesa: Non semplice, richiede prudenza. Scendere per la Cresta Nord sin nei pressi del penultimo canale verso Nord, poi svoltare ad Ovest per un canalino (Parete N-NW) appoggiandosi alle rocce di una costola (molto delicato con verglass); dal Glacier des Glaciers con un lungo traverso prima a Sud, poi a Sud-est si rientra al Colle della Seigne.

Essential Gear

Mountaineering equipment, including rope, iceaxe, and crampons.
Da alta montagna, corda, picozza e ramponi.


Difficulty: PD+/AD-.
Difficoltà: PD+AD-.



External Links

Great Crossing From: de la Lex Valley - de la Seigne Pass - Montagnes des Glaciers - Petite Aig. des Glaciers - S Ridge Aig. des Glaciers in ascent (N-NW Wall in descent) - Dôme de Neige - de la Seigne Pass: Osvaldo Cardellina, Camillo Roberto Ferronato, Giuseppe Lamazzi and Marco Cossard, (Jul 29th, 1979).
Aiguille des Glaciers (3817m) from the Seigne Pass
Aiguille des Glaciers...
quota 3331 with its little Glacier from the top of Petit Aiguille des Glaciers
Petit Aiguille des Glaciers from Col de La Seigne
Aiguille des Glaciers (3817m) from the Seigne Pass
Aiguille des Glaciers (3817m) from the Seigne Pass


I am greatly indebted to my friend Osvaldo Cardellina for the detailed description of the route.



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