Climbed the normal route from the Mittelaletschbivak with my climbing partner Helmut.
Climbed the SW-ridge from the Oberaletschhütte. A long but very interesting climb. Be sure to start very early, especially if you've to get back to Belalp the same day. The belays on the summitridge are very solid and route finding in the dark isn't a problem since there are reflectors on the route.
After being completely tired from a 12h round trip from the Oberaletschhütte to the Lötschentaler Breithorn the day before, odds were bad for the Aletschhorn. But things turned out the other way :)
Early start at 2 o'clock. Slow but steady approach to the SW ridge, well marked track. Snow conditions in the middle and upper part were very good, nice trace as well. Alone at the summit around 10 o'clock (only climbers on the mountain that day).
Descent of upper part in rappel (60m rope necessary to link all belay stakes, we only had 50m...), then easy on snow to about 3100m. Back at Oberaletschhütte at 6 o'clock in the evening. We stayed another night :p
Big mountain...glad I can look at it and know I've been up there :)
Nice powder untill 3400 meter.
Climbed the southwest ridge from Oberaletschhutte.
Very long journey. 7.15 hours for the summit. 8 hours for the descent.
Best weather possible. Great view from the summit. Watch out for rockfall on the way back to Cabane Oberaletsch.
Together with SP'er Sputnik we climbed the Aletschhorn via the Mittelaletschbiwak. We climbed from Fiescheralp, crossed the Aletschglacier and spent the night in the simple biwak. After an early start next morning we went up to the saddle, Aletschjoch and climbed via the normal route. On our return the conditions at the saddle were rather tricky due to the snowconditions. The second night also spent in the biwak. A beautiful but though climb in a remote place of the Aletsch region during a weekend with outstanding weather. Warm and sunny!
Long but rewarding ascent to the Oberaletsch hut, which still lies far away from the peak. Most of the upper SW ridge still was under good snow so few climbing or ice passages. Warmth + no wind on the summit, stayed >1h on top. Back at the hut on 4pm and stayed there for another night due to incoming thunderstorm. Saw only two other teams that day; next day no one tackled the Aletschhorn from the hut unless weather was fine.
Great Tour to Aletschhorn 4195m.
my picture are here: Link to Aletschhorn 4195m
As my first attempt at a 4000M peak this one beat me! It's a hard slog at PD+. :-(
VERY long approach done in the heat of midday left us both exhausted. Early morning wake up and my partner seriously lagging, ditched her, continued alone. Took turns making tracks through about 60cm fresh on the ardurous ridge on the way to the big plataeu below the false summit. Wind almost blowing us off the whole way, and very cold.
Got to the steep bit below the false summit -- definitely the crux point of the climb -- to find a lot of crevass danger and one really nasty bergshurd. Continue cautiously but quickly fall into one! Fortunately a small one -- just about 50cm wide, but @#$ing scary! So waited a long time for another guy who had ditched his partner only to find he left the rope behind as did I! So we both continued stupidly, but at least not alone.
Difficult to cross the bergshurnd with two different routes possible -- we pick the right one. Bad move -- very hard verglass that gets steeping. VERY touch-and-go especially on the decent -- left route said to be much easier. From there, easy sailing to the summit (sailing among hidden crevasses though). Don't try this at home, kids.
What an experience!
This is a really great mountain to climb, with a great satisfaction when you have done it. Did the normal way (east ridge/slopes) from the Mittel-Aletsch bivouac. Take care for possible ice/stone avalanches above the Mittel-Aletsch bivouac. When we were there, huge blocks of ice had come down! Some pics at my site: www.climbingtours.net
Nice mountain in not so nice weather
superb trip into an almost lonely corner of the Bernese Alps. It took us 3 days: one to go to the Mittelaletsch bivuoac hut from Bettmeralp (very long time to carry the ski, no snow on the Aletsch glacier), the second for climbing the summit (as described by alpenkalb's route, very exhausting as some parts are too narrow or too steep to go with ski, so we had to carry them again) and the third for returning into civilization.
Great conditions. Wall was much easier
than described in the guidebook. Lots of snow
covered most creveasses. Started at about 2
in the morning from Hollandia Hut, and after
the top we returned on the ridge to the Sattelhorn
back to the hut. Very nice round trip !