Excellent. Very valid points and thoughts. They all make sense to me. You can write books on the topic, but you've managed to make a very compact list of it.
# 22 is a hard one for me :-)
Haha! You would have killed me that time I pretended it was 15 minutes later than it was, waking my companions at 1:45 am instead of the 2:00 am they were promised! By the time we were roped up though, they didn't hate me :-). But the softening snow on a warm night was heavy on my mind...
Thanks! Yep, much as I want everyone to see alpine climbing as a reasonably safe pursuit, the fact that these "do not fall" places exist will render the whole game madness to some observers. May as well spell it out.
I was taught this mnemonic for building anchors at the belay.
S = Solid (goes without saying)
e
R = Redundant (if one piece fails, the other still works)
E = Equalised (share the weight out, no slack in the system)
NE = Non Extending ( If something fails, you don't drop a few metres or swing off wildly to one side)
If you build this into your belay point, your experience will remain SeRENE!
Yeah, it's a good point. I have to qualify that my tips here are circumscribed by my experience. The point about the Megamid really applies to alpine climbs in the North Cascades, on peaks with elevation of 8000 to 9000 feet. I haven't climbed in Alaska, and wouldn't imagine expecting a Megamid to be sufficient on Mt. Hunter or something like that!
All good points. A friend of mine loves those alpine (5 AM) starts so much the bastard dragged me out of the tent early almost every day on Denali. Have to admit it was nice going back down the Ice Headwall while everyone else was climbing up.
I totally agree with every philosophy that you have listed above. Especially - I am a true believer in Alpine style and your No 14:
14) My experiences have shown me over and over that light and fast is safer. How many times have we passed the party with bulging packs, though they camped at the base of the route and we came from the valley? The energy savings become enormous.
Thank you sm176811! Your alias reminds me of my old CompuServe account :-D. Yep, you can't go back. Also, I confess, I just don't have any fun with a 70 pound pack, no matter what the view!
Augie Medina - Apr 10, 2007 7:55 pm - Voted 10/10
Interesting ReadingThanks for distilling your experiences into suggestions and principles for others to consider.
mvs - Apr 11, 2007 2:57 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting ReadingYou are welcome, glad you liked it! I was inspired by The Chief's article on big wall soloing to write down some thoughts about "the game". :D
Corax - Apr 11, 2007 5:03 am - Voted 10/10
The GameExcellent. Very valid points and thoughts. They all make sense to me. You can write books on the topic, but you've managed to make a very compact list of it.
# 22 is a hard one for me :-)
mvs - Apr 11, 2007 7:16 am - Hasn't voted
Re: The GameHaha! You would have killed me that time I pretended it was 15 minutes later than it was, waking my companions at 1:45 am instead of the 2:00 am they were promised! By the time we were roped up though, they didn't hate me :-). But the softening snow on a warm night was heavy on my mind...
Herb - Apr 11, 2007 5:55 am - Voted 10/10
Well written......nice to read, agreeable and valuable. #8 and #14 are particularly true...
Thanks for some insight in your personal experience.
Cheers,
Herbert
mvs - Apr 11, 2007 7:14 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Well written...Thank you Herb. I agree, those two have given me a heap o' golden days!
arturf - Apr 11, 2007 6:06 am - Voted 10/10
19th point rules!We usualy call it "section without mistakes" on the route.
mvs - Apr 11, 2007 7:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: 19th point rules!Thanks! Yep, much as I want everyone to see alpine climbing as a reasonably safe pursuit, the fact that these "do not fall" places exist will render the whole game madness to some observers. May as well spell it out.
Nigel Lewis - Apr 12, 2007 3:27 am - Voted 9/10
Serene anchorsI was taught this mnemonic for building anchors at the belay.
S = Solid (goes without saying)
e
R = Redundant (if one piece fails, the other still works)
E = Equalised (share the weight out, no slack in the system)
NE = Non Extending ( If something fails, you don't drop a few metres or swing off wildly to one side)
If you build this into your belay point, your experience will remain SeRENE!
N
mvs - Apr 12, 2007 7:32 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Serene anchorsYes, that is a good way to remember the anchor building skills, thanks Nigel!
Blair - Apr 13, 2007 12:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Great StuffThanks for sharing, lots of good information for aspiring alpine climbers. Thanks alot mvs!
mvs - Apr 16, 2007 5:29 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great StuffAbsolutely, so glad you found it useful!
myles - Apr 13, 2007 1:50 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks mvsI loved numbers 10 and 11. I've been in both places, fortunately with a partner who was in the same places on opposite days.
Good stuff, here--it's all about getting out there.
MichaelJ - Apr 13, 2007 6:11 pm - Hasn't voted
22 & 25I'd say 5 am barely qualifies as an alpine start. Midnight is what I'd consider early.
Would you really take a Megamid to Alaska or any of the Greater Rangers? I had one nearly destroyed on Liberty Ridge in the summer.
mvs - Apr 15, 2007 4:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: 22 & 25Yeah, it's a good point. I have to qualify that my tips here are circumscribed by my experience. The point about the Megamid really applies to alpine climbs in the North Cascades, on peaks with elevation of 8000 to 9000 feet. I haven't climbed in Alaska, and wouldn't imagine expecting a Megamid to be sufficient on Mt. Hunter or something like that!
Brad Marshall - Apr 13, 2007 10:11 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks MVSAll good points. A friend of mine loves those alpine (5 AM) starts so much the bastard dragged me out of the tent early almost every day on Denali. Have to admit it was nice going back down the Ice Headwall while everyone else was climbing up.
sm176811 - Apr 14, 2007 3:18 am - Hasn't voted
I could not agree more!I totally agree with every philosophy that you have listed above. Especially - I am a true believer in Alpine style and your No 14:
14) My experiences have shown me over and over that light and fast is safer. How many times have we passed the party with bulging packs, though they camped at the base of the route and we came from the valley? The energy savings become enormous.
is right on dot!
mvs - Apr 16, 2007 5:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I could not agree more!Thank you sm176811! Your alias reminds me of my old CompuServe account :-D. Yep, you can't go back. Also, I confess, I just don't have any fun with a 70 pound pack, no matter what the view!
m_dquist - Apr 14, 2007 3:45 pm - Hasn't voted
One MoreYou should add "Success is determined by survival" to your points.
ExcitableBoy - Apr 15, 2007 9:35 am - Hasn't voted
Another and a response to MichaelJI would add "Downclimb rather than rappel when possible".
MichaelJ: Megamids are popular on Denali. Following rule 14 might have kept you from getting caught in a storm on Rainier.