An ice pitch to the right of...

An ice pitch to the right of the rock rognon on the Frendo Spur, early August 2005. Climber in picture: Boris Lukanov, Photographer: Stephen Becker

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Gabriele Roth

Gabriele Roth - Aug 6, 2005 5:57 am - Voted 10/10

worth to be the new PotW !

!!!!

avidwanderer

avidwanderer - Aug 10, 2005 7:25 am - Hasn't voted

Is that as steep as it looks?

This is a spectacular photo! Very inspiring. Is that really as steep as it looks? If so, if you don't mind me asking, are you using pickets, or ice screws for protection? It looks as if you are belaying a second and he has an easy pro cleaning job :-)



lavaka

lavaka - Sep 15, 2005 3:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Is that as steep as it looks?

Maybe 60 or 70 degrees, hard to estimate objectively, but the difficulty for us was simply the length of it all, pitch after pitch (and we went slowly). It got a bit steeper for a short section above this. Pickets wouldn't go in and I wish I hadn't brought them. Occasionally I put in ice screws, but the ice was not very solid and I don't think they'd hold a fall. I was up against the rock because it offered more secure protection with occasional cracks (often with fixed nuts, sometimes in inaccessible places from times when the ice was higher). We either simulclimbed or belayed when there was good rock pro.

Crux105

Crux105 - Aug 10, 2005 11:11 am - Hasn't voted

Ice?

How thick is the ice in picture.

lavaka

lavaka - Sep 15, 2005 3:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Ice?

The ice was pretty think in most places, but not very solid - lot's of air in it. Sometimes very wet too since it was late in the day.

Charles

Charles - Aug 11, 2005 7:08 am - Hasn't voted

great!!!!!!!

great stuff, well done!

cherokee

cherokee - Aug 11, 2005 7:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Memories!

This is one of the best pitches on the Frendo Spur.

Lupino

Lupino - Aug 30, 2005 11:46 am - Voted 10/10

That's...

WONDERFUL. Congratulation.

BCJ

BCJ - Oct 17, 2008 9:49 pm - Voted 10/10

Just a fantastic photo

Thanks for sharing!

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