Frendo Spur

Page Type
Route
Location:
Mont Blanc, France, Europe
Route Type:
Mixed Rock/Ice
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
D+ (III/AI4 (60°), IV(5.7)

Route Quality: 17 Votes

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Page By:
Frendo Spur
Created On: Feb 20, 2004
Last Edited On: Feb 20, 2004

Approach


Pretty straightforward approach from the Plan d-Aiguille station (halfway station up the Aiguille du Midi Lift). Put that helmet on early because of the crud falling off.

Check the Weather at the OHM (Office du Haute Montagtne) and read the climber's log book there for the latest conditions. Watch it as the rock and icefall last year were above average.

Route Description


1100 meters of mixed ice and rock climbing. If the lower rock buttress is pretty dry, the route can be completed in a day from the Plan d"Aiguille lift station. Just be quick about it.

Seriously consider bivying up on the Plan for an early start. Waiting for the first lift, combined with the approach time, are only recommended for the most efficient alpinists.

See attached route map for photo description.

Descent: Ride down on the Aiguille du Midi lift.

Essential Gear


Friends, 2 x 50m ropes, ice screws, tools, fitness.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-3 of 3

IceMonkey

IceMonkey - Jul 25, 2005 9:01 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

If you are bold, you can go left around the rock Ronion. Mostly Scottish Grade 4, but has one pitch of vertical Ice.... Nice!

lavaka

lavaka - Aug 5, 2005 1:09 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The route is very long and for all but the very quick, I'd recommend doing it in two days. We left the Plan d'Aigulle around 2 PM on the first day and that didn't give us enough time to make the nice bivouac spots before dark, though we climbed slowly. We belayed all pitches, most were very easy with rock shoes and we averaged about 1 piece of protection per 60 m pitch, but one pitch required some A0 climbing. We went to the right of the rock rognon and it got steeper as we went up. Very tiring. The ice was fine for tool placements, but the few screws that we put in were not very solid (this was early August, 2005). The snow pickets we took were useless. We found about 80 degree ice at the very end, but it was relatively easy compared to the long, tiring sections of unprotected 50 or 60 degree ice.


There was rockfall on the approach to the spur and to the right of the rognon; otherwise there was only the stuff we knocked onto each other.

oldgrey

oldgrey - Nov 7, 2010 1:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Going left...

We found the ice got pretty dodgy as you moved off the ice ridge towards the left of the rognon in the early afternoon (early July 2010). Protection was nominal - didn't want to lean back on it much less fall on it, and crampons and picks were ripping through a lot.

Once you got round the left side of the rognon things started to get much steeper (80-85 deg)but there was much better protection (several bolts on the side of the rock from a rescue mission some years back apparently) and harder ice that actually took good screws because of the shade of the rognon.

I would try to time the ice bit so that you are through it before noon.

Viewing: 1-3 of 3









Frendo Spur

Route
20 Images 12 Climber's Log Entries 1 Comments 3 Additions & Corrections

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Geography

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Aiguille du MidiRoutes