Good lawd that summit block felt loose!
One of the best summit pitches anywhere! Impressive to say the least. In fact, the entire route is stellar. Due to the crowd situation, please refrain from climbing in a group of 3 on a Saturday. We were stuck on the P3 ledge for over an hour waiting for them on the summit pitch.
Crazy cool summit pitch- a couple overhung mantle moves. Really amazing!
Excellent route...I had been waiting to do this one and it finally happened. The corkscrew at the top wasn't so bad to climb, but it was terrifying to be lowered from!
Love it, classic.
03/22/13 Lead pitches 1, 3, and 4 clean... next time I will climb it as only 2 pitches
02/00/14 Stolen Chimney with Natasha. Lead all pitches clean
Climbed with Mason and Will. Will led the 5.8 chimney while I did the rest free. It was a shorter climb than expected but it blew me completely away. The sidewalk on top was a little spicy but not as bad as the first few moves coming off the diving board.
Climbed Ancient Art with Yasu via Stolen Chimney route. Led all pitches. Great route to a spectacular summit!
A classic summit on a great desert tower. I really enjoyed this one. We camped in the truck at the trailhead and got an early start to begin the climb in front of the other parties heading up.
Climbed this with three other friends. We camped in Onion Creek (one of the best campsites I gave ever had) and got to the the base of Ancient Art by around 9am. We were the first ones on the route and there were two groups behind us. Awesome views and awesome climbing! The rock is surprisingly good for what it is. All the bolts were intact when we were there. The summitblock is a little loose.
Quite the change from Castle Rock, which we climbed the day before- mud-coated rock that seemed like the wall of an ancient river-bed (I guess it probably was...) just a start. Hordes of people also hard to fathom. That there seemed to be dozens of them either highlining across spires, or just jumping off of them with parachutes even crazier! In retrospect, a bit bummed I didn't try to free the first bolt ladder (that one of the bolts noticeably flexed when I tested it pretty much sealed the deal for me- WTF??!!), but felt good that the rest went free. It was hard on the last pitch to not clip the fixed lines fixed by the BASE jumpers for extra insurance, but glad I didn't. Unprotected (albeit easy) traverse to the summit pinnacle, followed by the unprotected (again physically easy) mantle onto the "diving board" slightly unnerving when I thought of the death pendulum that would ensue if anything went wrong (couldn't help myself!). Not to mention the slight vibration/thud emanating from the diving board when I gave it a good hit with my fist. Greatly relieved after finally clipping that first bolt! Summit perhaps the most exposed I've ever been on, but then again that's why the whole thing is so spectacular! Did the obligatory 1-foot pose on the summit. Ha ha. Great day, great climb to end our wonderful intro to Moab climbing (Thanks, Faith). Quite glad we ran into (well, they overtook us) the guys from Colorado with bright headlamps on the return, who kept us from an unplanned bivy! Would enjoy doing this climb again!
super crowded. but after climbing it i understood why, its a great climb!
a fun summit, very busy day - lots of parties, had to wait at some anchors over one hour.
2nd time - December 2017, what an exposure! and no crowds to add to your bravery. No climbers at Fisher Towers at all. Cold morning.
climbed ancient art via the stolen chimney w/aaron, eric and jason four weeks after getting shut down by a windstorm up high. today was just the opposite as we had the bluebird day with minimal wind on the corkscrew.
led P1 aiding off the quickdraws while receiving assistance from claire at the anchors. aaron and i cruised the now easy chimney to the large ledge before hooking up with eric and jason for the corkscrew. our group of four all mantled the diving board before roughing it on the crux pinches below the first bolt. it's all good from there. standing on the pizza box summit is a major rush! a good day all around
4/1/11 - The chimney pitch was a ton of fun, perfect for a chimney lover. Summit pitch was crazy but not too bad because I never looked down! Loved it. I'd do it again and again! Think I'd like to lead the chimney next time.
10/28/15 - Led all pitches w/ Kylie.
With Steve after weekend in the creek. This was one of the coolest, albeit bizarre climbs I've ever done. Pulling on crumbly, dirty holds while 300 feet off the deck was an experience. That summit pinnacle was surreal.
Second time on the summit but this time I had a camera. What a blast! Thanks Rob.
Camped out by the river and got an early start. There was nobody around all day. This was a great climb and a must for any stop in Moab.
Exposed and challenging.
I have climbed the Stolen Chimney route twice, once in September 2004, and again in November 2005. Great route.