Page Type
Kentucky, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Created On: Jul 25, 2003
Last Edited On: Apr 15, 2007


Climbs to the top of Tower Rock.
Go North from Nada through the the Tunnel reach the river and turn right up the Red River driving east along the right bank (north side). Pass the road to Frenchburg and continue a couple of miles. More specifically: Stay on KY 715 (don't take the curve to the left) for about 4.4 miles (1.2 miles past the bridge over Gladie Creek) to a pulloff on the right. Park in the pulloff and walk back down the road for about 150 feet to the trailhead for Tower Rock. You may see a sign indicating this. Walk across the road and take the winding trail uphill to a sharp bend near a large boulder. Just past the boulder, to the left, is a faint trail which will take you to Crankenstein, Courtesy Cringe and The Cutting Board. To get to the other routes and to the main part of Tower, stay on the trail. When the trail forks, take the right fork through a hallway of sorts to the nearest end of the rock (north facing). The locals may be able to help you here- the Rock is on the Topozone map. Wend your way up hill through the forest up hill not more than 1/2 mile You will reach the north east end of Tower Rock. I always walked south past the big easy chimney around the overhanging South end with large white pine. Keeping the rock on your left travel north along the east face until you come to an incut corner. This is Arachnid and you can match it to to the pictures I furnished.

Route Description

This is a right facing dihedral which you can layback or jam. The layback is about 30 feet and is commiting. I recall jamning using #6-8 hexes. I think that a #2 friend will help here and I did put in a #3 friend once but it was tight. If the old bolt is at the top clip it then do back it up. Traverse under the roof to the right until the dihedral resumes A giant friend, camalot can help. Then just pop up(crux) and go up the rest of the wider dihedral. Belay at the ledge tree. 2nd pitch climbs the face to the right 30 feet to get to the top of Tower Rock. Total is 90 feet.

At the loose bolt

Essential Gear

Small to medium cams to begin with. Big ones to finish with. Stoppers and small tricams for horizontals in second pitch.

Miscellaneous Info

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ITRAD - Dec 9, 2003 7:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

If arm bars & heel to knee jams are your gig you'll dig this climb. This is a very in your face climb, be solid at the grade and be prepared to run it out around the corner of the roof or you will suffer heinous rope drag.


desainme - Dec 9, 2003 8:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Got any pix of the fortress?

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