What a wonderfull peak!
We sarted early in the night down on basecamp and reched the summit at eleve`o clock. The conditions were good but the weather was a little bit foggy.
Abseiling was long and we were just finished when we arrived in the afternoon at basecamp in the woods.
After 12 hours through deep snow on the easy face, we bivyed in a cave we dug on the summit. 12 hours of sleep, and 7 rappels later, we downclimbed the rest. A Japanese climber who climbed the route a week prior had about the same experience, and 2 Catalonians who attempted it the day afterward were even slower. This is a big grovely climb, which is why it gets the grade. Wear super gaitors for the powder. The approach is simple, and there isn´t too much avy danger. Unfortunately, conditions have changed so much in the range that routes on the neighboring Pyramide de Garcilaso are unstable. The couloirs on the Caraz peaks look enticing, however.
-Barry Hashimoto, Huaraz, Peru
You can find my Trip-Report and more pictures
By going to my homepage: http://UlrichPrinz.de
and then follow the links to Travel and Peru.
There you can also find the short story of a tragic accident on that face.