Ben's Birthday Suit-- 5.9, 2 Pitches

Overview

This is a two-pitch sport route on nice granite. On Mountain Project, this route is a 5.8, and I agree that it is easier than 5.9. If there is 5.9 climbing on the route, it is probably on the first pitch in a thin section that is easy to bypass on the left. 

BBS and Donkey Day share top anchors, so do not climb this route if a party is already on DD.

Getting There

At the south end of Pinedale, take the signed road to Fremont Lake and Elkhart Park. After 11 miles, look for an unpaved pullout on the left (north) side of the road; directly across the road is a small meadow. There is room for two cars here, maybe three. If the parking is full or you just prefer a paved pullout, you can find one about a quarter-mile before and a quarter-mile after the dirt pullout.

Cross the road and pick up a trail that goes through the meadow and climbs a low ridge. As you cross the ridge, the crags come into view. The trail descends to the crags. Although the Mountain Project page says there is no trail, there is one; the trail may be newer than the page, which was submitted in 2009.

Approach time is maybe 15 minutes.

Route Description

One pitch has 4 bolts and the other has 8. I am sorry to admit I don't remember which has how many, but if you go loaded for 8, you'll be fine.

P1-- This pitch has the crux of the route. Scramble up a loose, brushy gully (trad placements are available). Then climb a slab and clip bolts until you reach the anchors.

P2-- The crux on this pitch is pulling a small overhang, and the move is easier than it looks.

Essential Gear

At least 8 draws plus whatever you prefer for belay anchors on sport routes. You can top out and walk off, but if you choose to rap, you will need at least a 60 and will have to do two raps unless you bring two ropes.