One of my favorite mountains. All blue skies today with no wind. Beyond Heather Pass the route is mostly covered in snow up until the saddle. Snow was soft and had a decent amount of steps already in it. I just wore my waterproof running shoes and brought an ice axe. Traction and/or mountaineering boots would be useful before the sun hits the snow (basically before sunrise on this south facing slope). Scramble is basically completely dry. The final scramble to the summit, in my opinion, is slightly more than class 3. It is pretty exposed. Incredible views from the top. Enjoy the glissade down. Did Maple Pass Loop after.
saw more smoke to the north from all the forest fires
Phenomenal! Just a spectacular place. I took my time to really enjoy this special area. Simply beautiful scenery. South Ridge was class 2 if you follow the cairns but class 3+ is available if desired just look for it. Summit block is class 3+ I'd say. Plenty of snow left, axe was very useful but didn't need traction. Trip report here.
Lots of simul-climbing on the ridge with Andrew
Another climb with Jason. Fine weather, a full moon, and only one giant, terrifying rock dislodged in the gully. Luckily I was close behind at that point and could get out of the way. The view of Goode and Logan from the summit was awesome.
Great views! Probably the most rotten, crumbling mountain I've been on! I turned around right below the last pitch to the summit. The guide says it's Class 3, but I'd say it's a solid 4 in my book. Then again I met a guy at the trailhead who was raving about how it is barely class 3. I guess ratings are pretty subjective. I'm wishing I'd tried from the west end of the summit rock, sounds like there is a better, less exposed route there. On the way down I saw a poor guy getting belayed down the gravel chute from the South Col. Man, that thing is nasty!!
2016-07-21 Via NE Ridge with Sam and Mckenzie (Solo)
Mellow, quick climb. This mountain is pretty loose, we saw/heard rocks falling off all day. I brought an ice axe and crampons and ended up needing neither, although I was happy to have my helmet.
Scenic approach hike and some of the best N Cascades views ever.
Some good scrambling too.
Great area - should have done this one a long time ago. Went with light day packs and really flew up it - 3hrs 30min up, 2hrs 40min down. Snow is now completely melted off the route - you can leave your ice axe at home for the rest of the 2015 season.
Drank 5 liters of water and pretty much sweated it all out. I encountered a section that I wished I had my ice axe for. Crampons however were not needed.
Most interesting thing on the way to the summit was finding $14 on the ground. I also found a wallet lying around which I turned into the NPS rangers.
My buddy found $6 a few days ago. I guess you get paid to climb this peak.
I am planning on attempting the Northeast Ridge of Black Peak near Washington Pass in mid-September with a partner. We will be traveling from out of state and would appreciate any information about the conditions from anyone who has been up there recently. In particular, how much snow is left on the approach to the ridge? How icy is it? Are crampons and/or an axe recommended on the snowfield? We are trying to decide between taking an axe and crampons, just crampons, just microspikes, or just boots. Also, would you recommend a 50 meter or 60 meter rope? We plan on simulclimbing most of the ridge but potentially pitching out the 5th class sections. Any advice on conditions would be appreciated. Thanks!
Trail up to Heather Pass was mostly snow-free; Heather Pass is still covered. Put on our gaiters to cross down the slope toward Lewis Lake; put on crampons as the snow got softer and more slippery.
At the outlet of Lewis Lake, a huge rock avalanche cascaded down from our left (Lewis Peak? The big ledgy chunk.) and directly in front of us. If we'd been five minutes faster, we would have been in the middle of it. HUGE. Biggest rockfall I've ever witnessed. Spooked, we started to decide about whether to turn back or not. Then more rock fell. And more. Given that we'd have to cross that shooting gallery again the next day, we hastily retreated while rock continued to fall behind us. Uff-da. Will return when conditions are more stable.
Beautiful trip, quite mellow. Incredible larches! Scramble is class 2 for the most part. Some annoying scree. Easiest way to get to the very summit is to keep traversing east (right) until you get to just above the notch connecting the NE ridge to the summit block. A few simple class 3 moves and you're there!
Backpacked in with friends on a two night trip. Climbed Black Peak via the South Ridge on the second day. Beautiful views!
Forest fires made for interesting views on this day hike. Below the summit we followed the cairns on the ledge to a very exposed class 4 section. I believe this is the standard way up based on accounts and pictures I've seen. The first move seemed very awkward to me so we decided we weren't in the mood. We headed to the west end of the summit "fin" where there are some bivy spots. From here a cleft in the rock was visible on the south side of the fin. I decided to try it out and found it was a simple 3rd class scramble that gained the top of the fin 10-15 yards west of the summit with only moderate exposure. From here it was a walk to the highest point with huge exposure on both sides.