Great trip with my friend Clark.
7.10.’12: Little Bear-Blanca traverse (finally!)- Left Little Bear's summit @ 10.33. Booked it, as clouds all around (didn't seem threatening, but didn't want them to evolve to that). Quite the aerobic climb, & great fun! Arrived @ Blanca's summit @ 11.50 => 1:17 total. Magnificent climb, great time!
Left summit @ 12.06 & descended NW face. Back @ car @ 8,000’ @ 17.19 (=> 11:27 c2c). What a day!!
7.16.'12: Ormes' Buttress ascent, w/ Faith; descent via Gash Ridge
Left campsite @ 4.51, TH (10,470’) @ 5.08. Started climb (Ormes' Buttress) @ 7.30.
First pitch loose 4th. Second pitch & on mostly 4th & easy 5th, frequently broken & loose, & interspersed by grassy ledges. Three or 4 sections of 5.6- 2nd pitch (the way we did it, at least) the crux- traverse to L, needed to get over overhang, comprised of detached blocks/flakes that seemed like great handholds (+ pro’ behind where detached, but also seemed like ready to come off if pulled or loaded (cam expanding). Freaky shit. Unroped in middle of climb for ~200’, & simul’ed last 400’ (4th -> easy 5th). On upper ‘prow,’ went to L to avoid difficulties (possible on many sections of the climb), as weather iffy.
Pro’ tiny (.1) -> #3 Camalot- as mostly parallel-sided cracks, nuts not very useful. Could’ve maybe used a 3.5). As rock compact, pro’ frequently scarce (anchors also sometimes difficult), as cracks infrequent.
Summited @ 13.23. Fun climb, but rock variability, & ledges decreased value somewhat. Still glad to have finally done!
After Ormes Buttress ascent, descended Gash Ridge. Exposed, fairly straightforward, & FUN! Rock quality fairly good- better than Ormes. Roach right on- mostly sustained 4th, with a few easy 5th sections. Belayed F through a few exposed sections.
Left summit @ 13.43. Unfortunately, went down wrong gully (should have climbed up & over (300’?) last uprising. Our descent was a shitty LOOSE gully that led to a talus/scree field that cliffed out. Dropped bag w/ pro’ in it & prolonged rain/hail only added to the fun. Attempt to get off when valley below SO tantalizingly close unbelievably vexing. F’s break-down only added to the seriousness. Did 3 rap’s. Last one, off a boulder that took one of my cordelettes, finally got to the ground @ 20.30. Final march thru driving rain put us back at the TH @ 22.13. FULL-VALUE day! Running heater for ½ hour, dry clothes, & chili SO good (couldn’t even tie laces before- fingers useless!). Epic day.
Did Ellingwood Point via SW ridge and traversed to Blanca Peak from an overnight camp above Lake Como. Saw some bighorn sheep.
Started 8650' day before. Camped at Lake Como. Thunder storm (with hail) ruined dinner time. Watched the fog roll in on the early morning start. Beautiful views from summit when fog allowed it. Great trip.
Climbed via the traverse from Little Bear. Classic.
My dates are all wrong probably but I forgot to sign the log last year. What an awesome climb with beautiful exposure though! Perfect weather too.
Long day. Hiked from close to Hwy 150 to peak. Endless rocks on the road, so wear solid footwear. Hiked with MCR. Beautiful scenery and ultimately well worth the effort.
Walked the road as we did not have a capable 4X4 and it was a very long day, but worth it.
Perfect weather. Summited on first day, camped along the upper lakes, and decended the next day.
Rained on the way down.
Started hiking a few miles in on Lake Como Road, set up camp, then continued on to the summits of Blanca and Ellingwood.
An easy traverse over
During the night. Awesome.
Great weather! Bit cold on summit. Made my way over to Ellingwood via just below the ridge. Magnificent views and vibes!
Meetup.com trip. We hiked in from San Luis Valley on Saturday and camped at Lake Como. We started around 4AM Sunday morning. There was a lot of loose talus higher up, so the "trail" was very hard to find. We went to the right before the saddle and dealt with some fairly easy class 3 scrambling before we made the summit. We got to the summit around 7:30 or so, I think. The clouds were already building up early in the day. Then we went over to Ellingwood Point.
Started at the very bottom and camped at lake como the first night then went to the top the next day along with ellingwood. Favorite mountain I have climbed so far.
Great hike and weather along with Ellingwood.
Did this on a 2 day trip, camped Saturday at Lake Como and hit the summit the next day, rested for about 1/2 hour while breaking down camp, and descended. On the way up got sidetracked in a couloir pretty close to Ellington and then had to take the ridge the rest of the way to Blanca. Would have liked to do another peak in the area, but facing an 8 mile descent and tired legs decided to scrap and drive back to Denver. Beautiful!
The traverse from little bear is the best CO 14 traverse, and maybe the best CO 14er route period. probably only class 4, though a bit exposed. TR up at http://zoomloco.xanga.com/732717261/purple-mountain-majesties/
Fun Climb from Huerfano Basin. Car shuttle to Lake Como Road after tagging Ellingwood Point as well.