Brennkogel NNE-ridge

Overview

The North-north-east ridge offers two alternative routes. The main difference is related to three rocky steps on the ridge, each of them app. 40 m high. You can avoid or bypass these steps (always on the right side of the ridge), this offers you a way to reach the summit along the ridge with climbing difficulties rated I (according to UIAA). But: you can climb the steps directly - this alternative is offering you a route with climbing difficulties rated III- (according to UIAA).



The picture above gives a good impression of the NNE-ridge route from the saddle via the three steps to the main summit. This photo was taken from the trailhead on the panoramic road in October 2006 – you can see, that most of the ridge is covered with snow. In summer it is a complete rock ridge, except a snowfield below the second step in the upper part of the ridge.

The first ascent of the NNE-ridge was done by A. v. Ruthner and Pius Kronegger in 1836.

Getting There

To reach the trail-head you have to use "Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse", a beautiful panoramic road.

For more details refer to the "Getting there" section of the Brennkogel main-page.

Route Descriptions

North-north-east ridge standard route (UIAA: I), app. 2.5 hours from "Fuscher Törl" to the summit, 611 m height difference

You start from the panoramic road "Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse" at the serpentine after "Törlkopf" (there are parking possibilities available). From there you descent to the visible saddle (2.407 m) – compare the picture in the section "Overview" above.
Now you start your ascent of the ridge (big boulders, to the right), passing a flashy quartz-block, reaching a big rock-block and a small rock spire.



Picture above: Me in the lower part of the ridge. In the background to the right you can see "Fuscher Törl", the panoramic road and the path leading down from the road to the saddle.

From the rock spire you continue to a rock step, ending on a flat part of the ridge. Now you will reach the first step (P 2.750) which you can by-pass to the right.



After this step you reach again a flat part of the ridge and you will see some wall relics of a former hut.
Below the next (second) step (P 2.825) – a partly overhanging rock – you cross a snowfield to the right, ascending a slope afterwards and reaching the ridge again (red and brown colored rocks).



Now it continues steeper to the next (third) step (P 2.935), which you avoid again on the right side of the ridge. From here you use steep rock-steps up to the summit ridge. On the ridge you reach the highest point (3.018 m) and the cross on the main summit.



North-north-east ridge direct route (UIAA: III-), app. 3 hours from "Fuscher Törl" to the summit, 611 m height difference

This is the same route as described above, except that you climb the three steps, instead of avoiding them on the right side.





The ascent on the NNE ridge offers great views towards Grossglockner and Glocknerwand. The two pyramids in the center of the picture are Sonnenwelleck (3.266 m) and Fuscherkarkopf (3.332 m). To the right of Johannisberg (3.453 m) you can see the first half of Breitkopf (3.152 m).

Literature

Map:
Alpenvereinskarte (number 40) "Glockner group" (1:25.000)
ISBN 3-928777-87-4

Book:
"Glocknergruppe" (Glockner group) by Willi End (697 pages)
As far as I know, this book is only available in german.
In this book you can find all relevant hiking and climbing routes in the Glockner group including 155 photos.
This is a great book for all hikers, mountaineers and climbers interested in this particular region.
10th edition from 2003.
ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
22,90 EUR
www.rother.de

Images

View Brennkogel NNE-ridge Image Gallery - 11 Images