This route is mostly a hand / finger crack found about 50 feet to the right of Holdless Horror
. It's shorter but arguably better, and if you have two 60m ropes you can rappel back to the base rather than walk off the dome.
See Getting There
section for Dozier Dome. Locate the right-leaning crack about 50' to the right of Holdless Horror
Note that the thin crack about 20' to the right of Holdless Horror
is Side Dish
Belay either from the base or scramble about 30' up fourth class / easy fifth to a ledge.
Pitch 1 (160-190', 5.7)
: climb the hand crack to a sloping ledge and belay on gear. There is also a set of belay bolts about 20' to the right, for Avocados & Tequila
Pitch 2 (140', 5.7)
: starts out as a right-facing corner, and has a short wide / awkward section, then narrows down to occasional pockets. Belay on gear where crack opens up again.
Pitch 3 (short, 5.easy)
: If you are walking off the dome, head up the crack, then traverse right (fourth class) to another crack and belay on gear. The walkoff from there looks to be easy fourth class (we rapped off).
If you are rapping off, head right over to the crack and downclimb to a big ledge, where you will see a set of belay bolts for Ripple
(5.7R). It's difficult to see these from the route, but if you do, just friction traverse over to them instead of having to downclimb to the large ledge. Two rappels with double 60m ropes get you to the ground (second rappel is from Ripple
's first set of belay bolts).
Obviously make sure before
throwing your ropes down that nobody is trying to lead Ripple
- 50 or 60m rope if walking off the dome, or two 60m ropes if rappelling.
- Supertopo recommends 1 set of nuts, a 0.6" cam, a 3.5" cam, and two sets of cams from 0.75-3".
- tape gloves to protect your hands from the knobby teeth inside the hand crack :)