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1329 Hits
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70.59% Score
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1 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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C***** |
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Number of Pitches:
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4 |
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Overview
This is perhaps the finest scramble route in the Berg, on an exposed face and narrow ridge and on a very prominent peak. Climber’s need to be sure footed, as a fall from the scramble sections is not an option. Some parties and especially guided parties use a rope. There are in-situ bolts in a few places for this reason. The fixed anchors consist of a bolt with 4 links of chain, however, many capable climbers would not bother with a rope. The author’s father, Alan Raubenheimer climbed Cathedral Peak as a junior forester in the early 1950s. Jock, his faithful long tailed fox-terrier accompanied him to the summit and back and had to be “belayed” down the scrambles by means of his tail!
Getting There
At the top of the Nxwaye River and the start of the eroded Bugger Gully, take a secondary path to the right, straight up to the first band of rock. 5mins from Bugger Gully to pitch 1.Route Description
Start: From where the path ends at the rock face. Pitch 1. 6m (C). Climb this passing a single bolted abseil chain at the top on the left. Then walk on up the path to below the next rock band. Pitch 2. 7m (C). Start high on the right near a bolt, traverse left to a ledge and another bolt. Or alternatively climb directly up and left to the top left bolt. Then walk along the path and then up over exposed rock and ledges taking any of several different routes. Pitch 3. 15m (C). At a narrow buttress climb directly up over slabs and grass to gain the path again 20m above. Walk along the path again moving left towards a shoulder of the mountain. Pitch 4. 12m (C). Ascend a steep slab and up to belay/abseil chains. The path then leads up a short, narrow gully to a platform. From this exposed platform climb a short chain-ladder onto a broad ridge. The path leads up to the skyline on the northern side near to the summit. At this point the NE arête meets the Standard Route. Turn up the narrow C grade arête above and to the summit. Descent: Back down the same way. Some parties use a rope and abseil “classic” style when needed from the bolts. 1 hr back to Bugger Gully.
Peak High Mountaineering