Solod the NE ridge with Amy on a beautiful October day, then we rappelled down the route.
Via the standard 'Fred Beckey' route. He might call it 'class 3', but it's a class 4 in my book. Left the Source Lake trail a little bit early, but still found our way. The 'normal' spot to leave the trail (as we discovered on the way out) is at N47 27.555 W121 27.267. The first several hundred feet will be on talus, but if you follow the cairns, you'll eventually find the path leading to the southeast gullies. The base of the 'Fred Beckey' route can be found at N47 27.523 W121 27.908 - just on the off chance you find yourself here in low visibility like we did. Rather than performing the 'awkward chimney move' to get into the gully, climb relatively easy class 3 terrain about 50' to the right, then traverse left into the gully. After a short distance, you will arrive at the split between the 'standard route' and the 'thumb tack face' variation (N47 27.525 W121 27.941). In hindsight, we probably should have taken the variation, which is in all likelihood class 3. The standard 'Fred Beckey' route, while not terrible, is definitely class 4, with crappy loose rock (helmet mandatory). No belays on the way up, but made a 100' rappel on the way down (starting about 100' from the top of the gully). 2hrs 40min up, 2hrs 30min down.
Went up on the holiday with my hotshot rock climbing buddies. Three pitches of protected climbing (some minimally)and four rappels. Long,hot hike back out through the holiday day hikers.
Simuled the snow/ice between the first pitch and the waterfall. Great route overall. 13 hours total due to slow snow conditions on the approach.
Very good experience for a first trad climb. Little bit of loose rock but good condition and great view on the top
Climbed the NE buttress, encountering mixed conditions lower down, with weird, rotten ice and neve higher up. never broke out of the cloud layer. made a mistake on the descent and ended up down-climbing and then re-ascending most of the west face. why does this keep happening?
Fun, quick, fast & fun!
Climbed the Southeast Route in the Becky guide. Definitely loose chunks of rock.
First trip up Chair. Lots of loose rock on the route.
We made the summit in a total white out but it was a nice and solid ice climb.By the time we returned to the base by a double rope repell the snow fresh snow was waist deep powder it was some of the best powder I ever seen lite and fluffy wish I had skis.
Climbed the North Face and NE Buttress a total of 15 times, 14 in winter. It is a 30 minute drive from house and I climb it every winter, sometime years a couple of times.
Had to bail due to wet slabs and melting snow near top of chimney. Very nice climb to that point.
via NE Buttress
Really different in winter (obviously). Fortunately not as loose...
A classic. Easy access, and fun but not scary climbing.
Showed up late, got stuck behind another party and we were moving pretty slow as is. Climbed the first pitch of the North Face which was a blast then bailed. It was the right decision but sucks none the less.
This route in summer was fun, rock was a little loose and I got "off route" (the traverse back to safety was a little harrowing) all in all a nice way to go. Rappelled down the chimeys to finish.
I remember one early winter attempt where we were forced by ice to retreat, rapping on a root or something aweful like that. No wonder I climb only the easiest routes!
Not the best summer route, going up or down.
N Face Solo, very sketchy, thin crust over powder on the top half. N Face rarely comes in very good conditions. NE Buttress usually a lot better because it's on the sunny side so it gets the melt/freeze. Not recommended in summer, climbers have been killed due to choss rock, no good gear. Soloed the NE Buttress a month later and a year later with a friend. 4 attempts before the first summit.