climbed on no sleep. man that felt...long
Climbed under a beautiful full moon, really nice views at times but didn't have much of a chance to take them in as we had to keep going up.
Climbed slow as I was quite fatigued, combination of a little altitude sickness I guess (although no headache) and only 1.5hrs sleep before leaving at c 11.15pm from the Whymper Refuge
Made it to the Veintimilla summit finally at c. 7.15am, so we climbed pretty slow by general standards - tour agency said its normally 6-8hrs to the main Whymper summit
Couldn't continue to Whymper due to the time mostly, but it was a white out up top, coulnd't see the Whymper summit
Still, first time over 6,000m so stoked! And on very bed prep also, came straight from Riobamba the night before, was meant to sleep t 3,800m and do some light treking the day before, but got bitten by a dog ;p
It´s a long one!! I climbed super slow...left early and got there late. Made it to the Veintimilla summit with Pablo from AndesTrek (ridiculously awesome guide except he´s returning to the U.S. for climbing season! Returns in November?), celebrated, and had to go down. Sun was shining hard. Saw the mountain´s shadow and Sangay erupting. Felt not-so-great coming down but crazy enough, I´d like to do it again later this year...
New snow every day on our trip to Ecuador. Deep trail breaking up final 500 meters. Reached the summit in -20C, high winds and no visibility. A great experience and a great climb. Went right from the Carrel hut. Chimborazo is a big, bad mountain!
Made it to about 20,000'
It took two attempts: my climbing partner had altitude sickness stop us on the first attempt a week earlier. Climbed Cotopaxi after that first attempt and came back back a week later, this time with a guide (needed a climbing partner) and was much stronger and faster. 8.5 hour round trip from the Whymper hut. Great view from the summit!
It had been really unreliable weather in Ecuador this June, but when I arrived the refuge of Chimborazo the weather suddenly changed to blue skies and hardly any wind at all, just in time. See trip report, GPS track and photos at my blog Distantpeak
As mentioned below, do not start too early if you climb fast. We left at 01.00, summited the real (Whymper) summit before 0600 and had to wait maybe 30 minutes for the sun to rise, which was pretty cold. Then about 2 hours down.
Route was easy and consistent, though also very cold when going up, one of few times I climbed with down jacket on.
I reached Ventimilla summit (6270 m) during a wonderful sunrise.
When I reached the summit it was impossible to continue up to the main summit due to a wind storm (more than 80 km/h)
Followed the normal route up to the summits. The frozen gravel was less than enjoyable at the start, but the climb up was not all that bad. It is a very long climb that goes consistently up at about 35 degrees, but it is all on good snow. Once you get to the ridge it´s just a matter of putting one foot in front on the other for a long long time. The farthest point from the center of the earth is pretty awesome! Got to see Sangay erupt a few times just at sunrise. Sweet!
Wow, not sure what happened, ran outta steam 300 meters from the top. Long steep snow slog and the snow was loose near the top causing me lots of problems. I think the 10pm ¨wake up¨was also a problem.....Ayway, this was pretty straightforward, beautiful full moon night.
Managed to do the normal route from the laguna above the whymper refuge in 6.5 hours. Couldn't get to the Whymper summit due to the whiteout on top but it was a hell of a climb!
Two days on Chimborazo. Johan Dahlström and me climbed the normal route through a rather safe snow covered El Corridor up to El Castillo where we pitched our tent and camp for the evening. The weather conditions were perfect with almost no wind at all despite from low clouds hanging over El Castillo.
At 11:00pm we woke up to a bright night full of stars and made a straight forward climb over the huge snowcovered flank of this huge mountain. We summited Cumbre Whymper at around 07:00.
Some cold winds up at the top and a mix of sun and clouds.
Later around noon the weather deterioated and while we were descending El Corridor (far too late) we were in mist and rain.
No attempt due to elevated avalanche conditions while we were there. The climbers memorial grave markers near the Whymper hut give you a little extra motivation to be cautious. Too bad, looked like a fun climb - the surrounding countryside is beautiful. Some big sloppy St. Bernard dog jumped all over me in the village we stopped at on the way back to Quito ...
Started at 11:40pm, summited Whimper at 4:40am, return to Whimper hut at 6:20am. Clear skyes but, didn´t waited for sunrise due to coldness. For everyone who walks bit faster than other climbers, do not start at midnight, i recommend at 02:00 or 03:00 am to avoid summiting before sunrise. It should be absolutely sufficient. Easy climb, didn´t need to use ice axe just as a walking stick.
Congrats! How was the route up to El Castillo? Any difficulties to find the route in the dark?
Thanks :) till El Castillo there were about 3 guided groups in front of me, so i've just followed them, somewhere around that point i've got ahead of them, but from there it's just straight up. On the other hand, i'm sure, that it won't be so easy in a different weather. Visibility was perfect and the trail from previous climbs was still there.
So tiring. Very difficult to keep putting one foot in front of the other but we survived and were successful. Quite cloudy so views were nonexistent.
My first summit of 2010. Guided Maria and Rennata, both from Austria. We left from refugio Whymper at 11 pm. A very bright night lit by the full moon. Actually I started the climb guiding to Maria. A very fast ascent. One of the guides got sick and asked me to take his client along with me (Rennata).
It took us 5:45 hours to get to the Veintimilla summit where Rennata asked me to leave her there. No way!!.. The three of us climbed for about 30 more minutes and got just on time to see the beautiful sunrise colors from the Whymper summit (6,310 m / 20,702 ft).
Hugs, a few tears and pictures. Personally it felt great to me... to say good bye to 2009 on the summit of Cotopaxi two days ago, and to welcome the new year at the top of Ecuador's highest mountain.
Got down by the same route we came up. Mountain conditions were excellent, except for the hard ice-gravel ones at the first dome, where Rennata slipped and fell down forcing me to use self arrest technique... uff!.. I stopped the fall a couple meters down.
A great accomplishment while guiding to my climbing partners... three mountains, three summits... no failures. Can't stop smiling :).
You don't know if you can do something unless you try... This was my second time to Chimborazo. I went on Nov 10 but had lots of rocks come crashing down near us. We decided the conditions were too dangerous to continue. But, I came back one week later and was so happy I made it to the Whymper summit in time for sunrise! My guide and I left the refuge at 11pm to make sure we had enough time, and it worked out perfectly. We got back to the refuge at 9:30am on stable snow.