I enjoyed this climb much more than Cotopaxi. Maybe I was more acclimitised but i think also because the terrain is more varied. Just the guide and I left at midnight and at Ventimillia at 7am. I must admit looked over at the whmper summit and didnt think any thing further could be gained by walking across to that mound. I was just wearing marmot spring gloves and hands got a bit chilly towards the top. Both my and my guides feet were very cold even in plastics. Wonderfully clear conditions, a bit of mist on the top slighly impeding 360 deg views. We used a screw going up on one section but just leaned right back on our crampons going down.
Start from whyper refuge at 0000
9 people + 5 guides
Steep trip, hard and dirty ice
Climb only 500 m (1600 ft) in 3 hr
Clearly unabble to reach the summit (maybe tired after more than 2 weeks climbing and trekking)
Turn back with 3 others at 5500 m
Bad weather coming, at lot of wind
Nobody could reach the summit this day due to fresh snow at 6100 m (19800 ft) just before pt Ventimilla
Climbing back in the night was quite dangerous
- difficult to find the way (even with an experienced guide)
- no moonlight
It is really more difficult than Cotopaxi
We left at 11am and reached the false summit a bit after 6am, in time to watch the sunrise. We made the traverse over to the Whymper summit and hurried down as fast as our four person party could go. A few rocks were already coming off the lower glacier and icy cliffs, but none hit our party.
Excellent weather day, great views of the other peaks and got to watch the southern cross during much of the climb.
Photos and Journals
left the hut around 1am reached the summit at
7am.. climbing conditions were perfecto .. made
great time. beautiful sunrise!
Made it to Veintemilla in a tad over 6h 30m. Pretty beat but would have dragged myself over to Whymper if I hadn't been overruled. There's always next time.
The last mountain to hit on my Ecuador Andes trip. Left the hut at 1230 and summited (Ventemilla) at 0830. The conditions were very icy. Placed screws on few occasions. No time or energy to continue onto Whymper. Still satisfying. The descent was interesting....from low visibility to icy slopes (a slip would have been lethal, if not fatal). Combination of rappin off and down climbing.
Full trip report of my Ecuador trip to come soon.
Summited via normal route about 06.15 in the morning. After having failed on Cotopaxi this was a nice "revenge".
Due to bad weather, wind and some snow at the refugio, we did not ascent to the whymper-hut, when arriving. Therefore, we started at 11 p.m., when the sky had cleared. Only four of our team, including me and two Ecuadorian mountain guides, reached the summit (Veintimilla) at around 7 a.m. Great view! While descending, the weather turned into similar conditions, as the day before. Great and exhausting climb!
A test on the bodies ability to go from Sea Level to 6300m within 5 days. Maybe it was the speed of the accent but luckily we sufferred little from the effects of altitude on this Volcano, its summit known to be the furtherest point from the centre of the Earth. A Sleepless few hours at 5000m in the refuge and a 12am start followed by a demanding and at times nerve racking climb through avalanche prone 60 degree slopes and waist deep snow due to the heavy snowfalls the night before. Nicole Miller and David Nanfra summited at about 7.30am, November 18 on a clear, beautiful morning where we could observe the valley of the volcanoes and their smoking chimneys. We had to beat a hasty retreat to avoid the melting ice avalanche danger as the sun hit the slopes below and we were forced to resort to 'running' down the mountain to get back. An amazing, courageous performance by Nicole, 1 woman amongst 5 men.
Left the Whymper Hut with my daughter Hannah and our guide, Jorge, at midnight on Saturday after virtually no sleep. We maneuvered through the lower rocky area which had some difficult icy sections and got onto the glacier about 90 minutes after leaving the hut. The weather was great and we had a full moon, so we were able to turn off our headlamps in some sections. The ice was rather flaky and required some heavy duty crampon work. The ascent was steeper than expected and trying to obtain adequate oxygen was like sprinting while breathing through a thin, hollow swizzle stick. The mental part of the climb was as tough as the physical, as climbing in the dark precludes any sort of inspiration coming from beautiful vistas. The three of us reached the Ventimilla summit at 7:30 AM and had great views of the tallest peaks in Ecuador. As with our other experiences at higher altitude, we were severely anorexic and I reached the summit having consumed only 4-5 peanut M&Ms and 750 milliliters of Gatorade. We stayed at the summit for only about 5-10 minutes because it was cold and windy. Our decent was uneventful, but the rockfalls in the lower section were unsettling, as was the creaking and groaning of the glacier as it warmed on our decent. Overall, we had a great experience and are blessed to have had good health and great weather in getting to the top!
Excellent conditions, cleared sky, no wind, wonderful view!!!
Climbed up to Veintimilla summit in 8 hours. Stayed there with my rope partners while other friends went for the Whymper summit.
My first 6,000 meter mountain: felt great!!!
Long day from hut.
Party made of J.MESIAS ( Ecuador, Guide ) and E.Douet (France ) .
Started from Whymper Hut at 0.05 AM .
Full moon was lighting the way, so no need to use the headlights .
Some of the parties had to go back because of the coldness, but no wind .
Reached Veintemilla Summit at 6.00A.M., and then we winded through small crevasses for 45 minutes more to get to Whymper Summit .
Way down was far more more difficult for my legs, because of the exhaustion !
Climbed as a simul-solo with Paul Hudson and our jeep driver Marco Leon, reaching the Veintemilla summit in just 5.5 hours. The route seemed to be in very good shape and all crevasse bridges were very stable, so climbing unroped was no problem. A bit icy in spots, but otherwise very straightforward. The section from the Veintemilla summit to the main (Whymper) summit was heavily crevassed and the main summit was guarded by a large crevasse which was difficult to pass. Definitely a long slog.
I guess it just wasn't my day. After succesfully climbing 3 peaks above 5800 meter in Peru and Ecuador (including my first 6000 meter peak), I ran into some bad luck.
After a few hours of sleep in the Whymper hut, I got up at 11.00 pm to prepare for my climb. Although not ill, I wasn't feeling great. Then my guide Raul came in to tell me that he was very ill and had to return to the lower hut (so I wasn't the only one catching a cold on Cotopaxi). And last but not least weather conditions had changed. The result: 9 out of 10 climbers (including myself) had breakfast in the Whymper hut. All attempts to reach the summit had failed. Only one Spanish climber was moving up solo after his teammates decided to turn back.
Bad luck, bad conditions.......it's still a beautiful mountain to climb. I will be back......
Great conditions. The glacier has retreated to about 17,500 and there was an easy traverse to gain the ice shelf and the glacier. The ridge had a few good-sized crevasses with snow bridges, and the Whymper summit is heavily crevassed -- no one had traversed to it in a while, it appeared. Stellar route and good weather.
We camped just above the hut; too cheep to pay to stay. took 7.5 hours to summit. Beautiful weather. Most stars I have seen in my life. Long slog, great climb.
After spending more than a week on the altitude 4600-4800m we had pretty good acclimatization. All symtoms of the altitude sickness had gone. Once we arrived to the base camp we decide to do the second high camp at El Castilo Tower which should give us pretty good chances to reach the summit from there. From the Whymper Hut it took us 5 hours to travel through the nasty icy glassier covered with small imbedded pices of rock. Finally we found a little place suited only for one tent. Only 3 people made it to the high camp. Next morning two of us started our summit. It took us about 3hours to reach the summit. Unfortunatly there were alot of clouds. Thus the pictures on the summit were not that great. We went unroped on that day. It allows us to move pretty fast. I was ahead of my climbing partner by 30 min, however we were constantly in the visible region. It was a great mountain to climb. Thus we decided to spend another night at the high camp (5400 m).
Left the upper hut at 12:30 am. via the normal route, steady climbing until about 6000 meters. We post holed and slipped for the next 2 1/2 hours. That was miserable. We summited at 8:15am.
We had no views, summit was covered by thick fog. Great climb. though!!!!
By far my best climb ever!!!
Story already told in detail in Chimborazo summit log in peakware.
I would like to add, however, that 1997/1998 might have been a very special winter, with conditions much more favourable than average.
After an El Nino with untypical high amounts of snow I did not encounter any hard ice.