Climbing via Queens Way.

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Location Lat/Lon: 40.05800°N / 105.651°W
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Aug 1, 2003
The Queen's Way Couloir is a straightforward, steady slog up a relatively constant slope that is easily done with an ice axe and crampons. The couloir today was in good climbing shape. No bare patches of ice, just a soft, grainy snow. I used these 4 point crampons that fit onto soft leather boots. They were adequate at best. Standard 12 point crampons are obviously better. From the top of the couloir access the summit up the easy to climb talus. Because of an approaching storm I had to hurry off the summit and almost got steered into the wrong descent route, so make clear mental notes of the top of the Queen's Way if this is how you intend to exit. I initially tried to hike down but lost my footing, and ended up glissading nearly the entire way down, which is probably the preferable way in any case. It isnt too steep, but as in all glissades be aware of speed and control and practice ice axe technique.


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