Clyde Variation

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 37.09390°N / 118.5219°W
Additional Information Route Type: Class 3-4 rock
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: 4
Sign the Climber's Log


Access to this route is typically gained by the Bishop Pass trail and then going overland through Thunderbolt Pass. Good campsites can be found a bit lower and south of the crest of Thunderbolt Pass.

Route Description

The West Face of North Pal has three prominent chutes. The large talus fan at the rightmost of the three chutes in a white section of rock mark the correct chute.

Climb the chute to the U Notch. I say this because even though you don't actually stand in the notch itself, you are so close you will feel you were there. This will also prevent you taking a wrong ledge. The climb starts no more than 40-50 vertical feet below the Notch. The climb starts in a class three open book slot leading to a ledge. The slot is perhaps 15-20 feet at most and is not difficult. At the top of the slot is a platform, which becomes a ledge and moves left around a corner to the north. Round the corner and then climb straight up for at least two full pitches. The hardest moves are just around the corner from the first ledge. The target at this point is the extreme right hand edge of the ridge visible above you. Reaching the top of the ridge on the right you will find a few rappel slings. This marks the end of the face you've been climbing. Carefully climb over the ridge to the east side. The exposure is noteworthy. Once on the east side, work north and then cross the ridge again to the west moving into the bowl just below the summit. At this point, take your pick. You've made it this far. You'll figure the rest out.

Essential Gear

A few cams may be desired for protection in some areas. Take a few slings to replace older rappel anchors. A 50 meter rope will make your trip home faster.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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