Soloed in perfect conditions. You can start pretty late on this route, because it stays in the shade until quite late, then boot down the standard route on nicely-softened snow. Trip report.
Climbed the headwall via what i believe is the right variation, the one the second ascent party used. simuled the whole thing, up to AI5 when we got a little off route.
Very hot, zero wind, great climb!
As gcap states: perfect weather + good company = successful summit. Lots of snow on route made conditions ideal. Good times.
zero wind on summit. very hot day on the glacier coming down. belayed over the schrund then simulclimbed the entire route. climbed with SP members Lutty and Vertigo Soul.
We belayed one vertical pitch low down and climbed the rest ropeless. A sonic boom from a low flying Canadian air force jet nearly made me crap my pants. I was sure it was a serac calving off right above us.
Great climb with Pablo Puruncajas. Going up the runnels on the headwall was a trip. I felt that an any time a 10-foot ice ball would be coming down to pluck us off the mountain. Obviously, I had watched Indiana Jones too many times in my youth...
Nice climb. Still itching to get back and summit the North Ridge or Coleman Headwall though.
Nothing but rain once at high camp....waited for 2 days and retreated.
Turned around 300ft from the nice smooth summit due to high winds and very low temperatures.