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Nelson - Apr 8, 2006 2:12 pm - Hasn't voted

Poor suckers

OK, it's a very nice table, but what about us poor suckers who don't even climb at the US 5.6 grade? Wha' happen to the 'D' and 'VD' UK grades?! :-}


Corax - Apr 8, 2006 3:08 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Poor suckers

You're right. The table is far from complete, but I couldn't find enough info to add the lower grades. It would be most welcome if you or anyone else could find a good table/info.
I will add at least a comparison between UIAA, French and US grades soon. The reason I started with this page is because I don't know much about grading myself and felt I had to know at least the basics.


Corax - Apr 9, 2006 8:06 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Poor suckers

Thanks for the links. Now added on the main page.

chugach mtn boy

chugach mtn boy - Sep 3, 2012 7:02 pm - Voted 9/10

Low grades off

Corax, UK M and UIAA I/II do not correspond to anything in the US 5th class.

I would say UK "diff" routes are usually akin to YDS class 4, or maybe 5.0 in a few cases. V. diff generally gets you into "5-easy" climbing on the US scale.

The chart needs to start the US ratings off in class 3 and class 4, and reserve 5.1, etc, for a few lines down.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Sep 3, 2012 9:53 pm - Hasn't voted

Agree on low grades

I am very familiar with the YDS and UIAA grading systems and have climbed many routes of the lower grades under both.

I can tell you from first hand experience as well as from a direct translation from a Swiss Apine Club guidebook that UIAA I and II are YDS Class 3 and 4. UIAA II+ and III- are in that gray area between Class 4 and 5 eg. Class 4 for some folks and easy Class 5 for others.

See this table put together by mvs and I - the written descriptions of the UIAA grades are from the SAC guidebook.

Handy Alpine Facts.

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