OK, it's a very nice table, but what about us poor suckers who don't even climb at the US 5.6 grade? Wha' happen to the 'D' and 'VD' UK grades?! :-}
You're right. The table is far from complete, but I couldn't find enough info to add the lower grades. It would be most welcome if you or anyone else could find a good table/info.
I will add at least a comparison between UIAA, French and US grades soon. The reason I started with this page is because I don't know much about grading myself and felt I had to know at least the basics.
Thanks for the links. Now added on the main page.
Corax, UK M and UIAA I/II do not correspond to anything in the US 5th class.
I would say UK "diff" routes are usually akin to YDS class 4, or maybe 5.0 in a few cases. V. diff generally gets you into "5-easy" climbing on the US scale.
The chart needs to start the US ratings off in class 3 and class 4, and reserve 5.1, etc, for a few lines down.
I am very familiar with the YDS and UIAA grading systems and have climbed many routes of the lower grades under both.
I can tell you from first hand experience as well as from a direct translation from a Swiss Apine Club guidebook that UIAA I and II are YDS Class 3 and 4. UIAA II+ and III- are in that gray area between Class 4 and 5 eg. Class 4 for some folks and easy Class 5 for others.
See this table put together by mvs and I - the written descriptions of the UIAA grades are from the SAC guidebook.
Handy Alpine Facts.